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Pierwsza na drodze była Akka, wielu kojarząca się przede wszystkim z wyprawami krzyżowymi. Dotarliśmy do niej pociągiem szybko, sprawnie i naprawdę przystępnie cenowo. Jeszcze w pokoju hotelowym zrobiliśmy sobie zrzut ekranu mapy jak dojść z dworca na Stare Miasto, ale muszę przyznać, że droga jest bardzo prosta i dzięki metodzie “koniec języka za przewodnika” też dacie sobie świetnie radę. Spacer zajmuje ok 15- 20 minut, my weszliśmy bramą boczną, minąwszy mały cmentarz, są jednak też i inne opcje. Generalnie chodzi o to, by dojść do średniowiecznych murów, czyli jak dla nas clue programu (tzn poza nimi też można natrafić na urokliwe miejsca, np. letnią rezydencję Bahá’u’lláh – Al-Bahję, otoczoną pięknymi ogrodami z sanktuarium bahaitów, nam jednak ze względu na ograniczenia czasowe nie było dane się tam znaleźć).
Historia tego starożytnego miasta portowego sięga epoki brązu, więc po jego starówce możecie się naprawdę wiele spodziewać. Co ciekawe, jako jedyną w Izraelu Akkę wpisano na listę światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO dwa razy- znalazł się na niej zespół zabytków oraz wspomniane już sanktuarium bahaizmu. Samo Stare Miasto stworzone jest w z dwóch poziomów – podziemnego miasta krzyżowców i naziemnego osmańskiego. Ta odkryta część jest zbudowana w typowy arabski sposób, dlatego możecie się spodziewać małych domów, wąskich uliczek, znacznego obszaru z zadaszonymi sukami, meczetów, łaźni, cytadeli, zamku oraz ze względu na wielokulturowość Akki również kościołów i synagog, wszystko zaś otaczają imponujące mury. Oprócz tego port, liczne knajpki, mnóstwo ludzi – tętniący życiem powrót do przeszłości.
Jeśli chodzi o zabytkowe mury, to trzeba przyznać, że bardzo przypadły nam one do gustu. Jak się później okazało – nie tylko nam. Wspinaliśmy się gdzie tylko można było (bo oczywiście zakazów gazylion, jak to w Izraelu), nierzadko wbijając się komuś na chatę. Gwarantują one znakomity widok, a jednocześnie odosobnienie umożliwiające idealny relaks. Podobno, jak się człowiek dokładnie wpatrzy w zatokę, to w oddali zamajaczy mu Hajfa. My tam widzieliśmy głównie niespiesznie sunące po wodzie łódeczki i w pełni nam to wystarczało. Relaks przez duże R. W zasadzie gdyby nie napięty grafik spędzilibyśmy na tych wszystkich dachach cały dzień. W tym miejscu zaznaczyć należy, że nie są to byle jakie mury, lecz fortyfikacje pochodzące jeszcze z XVII wieku (mowa o tych współczesnych, wcześniej całość tworzyła się kilkaset lat).
Chcąc nie chcąc zrezygnowaliśmy z naszych iście parkourowych zapędów i w pewnym momencie zeszliśmy nieco bardziej na ziemię. Czyli nad samą wodę, a następnie powłóczyć się między zadaszonymi sukami. Port również najmłodszy nie jest, znajdował się w obecnym miejscu już 3000 lat przed Chrystusem, a wg niektórych źródeł wręcz w XV w p.n.e. Kręci się po nim sporo rybaków, tak zawodowych, jak i zupełnych amatorów, zakochane pary, młodzież, pływacy i niestety samochody. Swego czasu, a konkretnie pod panowaniem krzyżowców, odgrywał naprawdę istotną rolę.
Bardzo nam zależało, żeby wejść do któregokolwiek meczetu, ale w momencie modlitwy innowierców na ich teren nie wpuszczają (co jest skrzętnie egzekwowane przez mało sympatycznych panów). Obeszliśmy się więc smakiem. Pokluczyliśmy więc trochę po krętych uliczkach Starówki, omijając celowo największą aleję handlową, czyli tzw. Biały Suk, al-Abjad. I mimo iż momentami było bardzo rupieciarsko czy wręcz biednie, nam to jakoś specjalnie nie przeszkadzało. Akka ma coś wyjątkowego w sobie. Do tego stopnia, że chce się w niej pozostać jak najdłużej. I mimo iż to ogrody bahaickie z Hajfy zyskały największą popularność, naszym zdaniem godną uwagi znacznie bardziej jest ta mniej turystyczna, a zdecydowanie ciekawsza miejscówka. Może to i dobrze, zazwyczaj tłumy gawiedzi mocno przeszkadzają w poczuciu prawdziwego klimatu danego miasta. A, że w Akce nie starczyło nam czasu na odkryte w latach ’90 podziemne tunele Templariuszy czy też lochy Cytadeli, niewykluczone, że do niej za kilka lat wrócimy.
Do Hajfy dotarliśmy szybkim pociągowym kursem i obliczyliśmy, że zostały nam niecałe 2 godziny na zaliczenie punktu obowiązkowego, czyli bahaickich ogrodów oraz powrót na dworzec (w przeciwnym wypadku bylibyśmy zobligowani do kimania w tym największym mieście północnego Izraela przez kolejne 1,5 dnia). W takich chwilach strategia to podstawa i liczy się niekoniecznie wygoda, bądź finanse, a umykające w zawrotnym tempie minuty. Gdy spojrzeliśmy na wznoszący się przed nami punkt docelowy tej części wycieczki, czyli górę Karmel, poczułam w udach przyszłe zakwasy. Uznaliśmy jednak, że wspinaczka pozwoli poznać nam miasto chociaż w minimalnym stopniu, a jednocześnie nie będziemy musieli czekać nie wiadomo ile na lokalny autobus. Gdy dotarliśmy na pierwszy założony przez siebie przystanek, myślałam, że dostanę udaru ze zmęczenia. Podchodziliśmy bardzo stromą drogą, wzdłuż średnio urokliwych widoków, nie można więc było nawet nacieszyć wzroku i jakoś zrekompensować sobie tyrki(no i tempo mieliśmy zawrotne, serio. Zakładam, że trasę tę, w innych okolicznościach, pokonywalibyśmy sto razy dłużej. Jednym słowem – trzeba wrócić do aerobów na siłowni, nie ma zmiłuj).
Miasto średnio ładne, mocno przemysłowe, co widać w infrastrukturze. Zupełnie inne niż chillowa Akka. Ale co tu się dziwić – to podobno największy port przeładunkowy i pasażerski w Izraelu, wokół którego znajduje się sporo zakładów, w tym np. rafineria, więc ducha czasu żeśmy w nim nie uraczyli. To też istotny ośrodek kultury, ale w ciągu dwóch godzin marszobiegu nie było nam dane się w nią również zagłębić. Generalnie wypowiemy się tylko na temat ogrodów 🙂 i znajdującej się pośród nich świątyni bahaistów.
Fajnie, fajnie, ale co to jest ten bahaizm, spytacie. Otóż, co zapewne nie będzie żadnym zaskoczeniem biorąc pod uwagę jaki kraj odwiedzaliśmy, jest to…religia 🙂 Monoteistyczna, relatywnie młoda, powstała bowiem w XIX w dawnym Iranie, czyli Persji. Jej pierwszym przywódcą duchowym był Bab (czyli Brama), prześladowany za głoszone słowo i w rezultacie za nie również stracony. Na świętej górze Karmel znajduje się centrum wyznawców tej wiary, którego kluczowy punkt stanowi sanktuarium proroka, z wypielęgnowanymi do perfekcji ogrodami nad nim i tuż pod (Małgorzata Rozenek byłaby zachwycona). Świątyni trudno nie zauważyć – zwieńczona jest połyskującą, złotą kopułą
Gdy dotarliśmy pod sanktuarium Baby okazało się, że jest 13:00 i spóźniliśmy się jedyne 60 minut na zwiedzanie (szkoda, że w naszym przewodniku nikt nie napisał, że można tam wejść codziennie w godzinach 9:00-12:00, trochę byśmy plany przekonwertowali). Pochodziliśmy więc po wychuchanych z aptekarską precyzją alejkach parkowych, wcześniej przechodząc oczywiście rewizję osobistą i skan bramką (niestety dla ludzi z rozrusznikiem serca Izrael nie jest najlepszym krajem do zwiedzania). Zostało nam bardzo mało czasu, trasy może nie tak dużo, jednak wyglądającej na dość upierdliwą, dlatego na sam szczyt wjechaliśmy już z panem taksówkarzem. I muszę przyznać, że warto było się szarpnąć na podwózkę – widok robi robotę.
Dokładnie ogrody zwiedzić można, ale tylko z przewodnikiem, codziennie poza chyba środami. Więc jak już dotrzecie na sam szczyt, to poza zachwycaniem się widokiem i robieniem sobie miliarda zdjęć z panoramą (jakieś 20 minut dokonywałam selekcji, bo mamy chyba milion 500 100 900 ujęć) skorzystajcie z jego usług- zaczyna się właśnie z samej góry i powoli złazi na dół, a przechadzka trwa niecałą godzinę.
Podsumowując uważamy, że wycieczki te są naprawdę godne uwagi. Niemniej jednak zupełnie nie rozumiemy, dlaczego Hajfa uznawana jest za te ciekawszą połówkę dwupaku. Owszem, jej ogrody są naprawdę idealnie wymuskane, ale magią miejsca poszczycić się może Akka. I za spędzeniem właśnie w niej lwiej części wycieczki będziemy namawiać zwłaszcza tych, którzy na wakacjach chcą też dać odpocząć umysłowi i po prostu nic nie musieć.
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