Oczywiście możliwości jest więcej. Jak zwykle. Niestety my na włoską, grudniową podróż poświęciliśmy tylko kilka dni, więc nie starczyło nam czasu na więcej kierunków. Jak zwykle. Dlatego ograniczyliśmy się do dwóch podstawowych, czyli Mediolanu i Jeziora Como. Ale i tak było fajnie. Jak zwykle.
Na pierwszy ogień wzięliśmy Mediolan. Ja już go kiedyś eksplorowałam podczas wyjazdu integracyjnego (tak, wiem, dość wyjątkowe miejsce jak na imprezę firmową), dla Sebastiana był to natomiast pierwszy raz. I niestety nie w pełni satysfakcjonujący, ponieważ cały czas padało. Jednak w całokształcie wycieczka naprawdę nam się podobała.
Z Bergamo do światowej stolicy mody można się dostać na kilka sposobów. Albo już na lotnisku zapłacić kilka euro za bezpośredni, odjeżdżający co kwadrans autobus, który pokonuje trasę w maksymalnie godzinę. Albo śmignąć pociągiem z dworca kolejowego, koło którego mieszkaliśmy i po 50 minutach, bez 5,5 euro w kieszeni, być na mediolańskim Centralnym, który jest jednym z większych tego typu obiektów w Europie (i starszych – pochodzi z lat ’30 XX wieku).
Jako że Mediolan, zaraz po Rzymie i Wenecji, jest kluczowym punktem na turystycznej mapie Włoch, nie można się nudzić podczas jego zwiedzania. Na wstępie kroki swe należy skierować w stronę Placu Duomo szczycącego się imponującą, gotycką katedrą. Wszystko w niej jest gigantyczne, począwszy od ozdobionych płaskorzeźbami drzwi po chóralne witraże (iście amerykańska mania wielkości). Najciekawszy jest dach, na który można dostać się windą lub schodami. Zdobią go liczne wieżyczki, rzeźby i inne kamienne dekoracje, a przy bezchmurnym niebie daje on szanse na obejrzenie, poza panoramą miasta, także potężnych Alp.
Poza Katedrą, gołębiami i licznymi sprzedawcami dóbr wszelakich, na placu można zaobserwować też życie rebeliantów, ze względu na fakt częstych manifestacji odbywających się w tym centralnym punkcie miasta. Faszonistki będą piały z kolei z zachwytu nad wystrojem ulokowanych wokół Piazza del Duomo sklepów, albowiem miast znanego z centrum handlowych nijakiego sposobu podania produktów, okolice te serwują każdą rzecz iście po królewsku. Czego koronnym przykładem jest Galeria Wiktora Emanuela II , której budowa rozpoczęła się jeszcze pod koniec XIX wieku. Zapełniona ekskluzywnymi butikami i kawiarniami nawet McDonalda potraktowała jak restaurację z prawdziwego zdarzenia i chociaż obecność fast foodu trochę w takim miejscu razi oko, nie tylko estety, to w połączeniu ze stylizowanymi na zabytkowe zdobieniami, pozwala uznać ichniejszego hamburgera za produkt z górnej półki.
Ja się na modzie kompletnie nie znam, co zresztą łatwo można zauważyć na dołączonych do postów obrazkach, niemiej jednak byłam w stanie zauważyć, że to miasto głownie tym żyje. Kwestia ubrań, stylizacji, faktur, kolorów wyziewa dosłownie z każdego zakamarka. Jest to ciekawe doświadczenie, aczkolwiek mnie bardziej interesują artyści dnia powszedniego. Nierzadko anonimowi, niedocenieni, klepiący biedę, jednocześnie będący wirtuozami formy w stopniu porównywalnym do tych, którzy rządzą na wybiegach.
Jako przykład, z ogromną przyjemnością, przedstawię Pana, który chyba był w pewnym stopniu autystyczny i któremu wyraźnie brakowało na chleb. A jednak – mimo gigantycznych przeciwności losu – potrafił siedzieć cały dzień na płytach chodnikowych i wydłubywać w warzywach takie cuda. Za każdym razem, gdy o nim myślę, mam gulę w gardle i łzy w oczach. Mam nadzieję, że chociaż tym skromnym wpisem, będę mogła oddać ukłon jego imponującej twórczości.
Oczywiście Mediolan to nie tylko Katedra Duomo, ale również bilion innych zabytków, zarówno sakralnych, jak i świeckich, w tym m.in. jedna z najsłynniejszych oper świata, czyli La Scala lub ceglany, piętnastowieczny Zamek Sforzów, posiadający suchą fosę (zawsze, gdy tworzyłam na plaży budowle z piasku, całą uwagę poświęcałam fosie, która musiała być głęboka i zalana morską wodą. Zamek zazwyczaj wyglądał jak nieudany kopiec kreta, żeby nie użyć bardziej dosadnego porównania, za to fosa była wykonana z zegarmistrzowską precyzją. Koniec dygresji).
Castello Sforzesco udało mi się dokładnie zwiedzić podczas pierwszego pobytu. Niestety naszej grudniowej eskapadzie towarzyszył tak męczący deszcz, który w połączeniu z moimi zamszowymi saszkami nie pozwolił na czerpanie przyjemności z oglądania baszt i parków zamkowych. Postanowiliśmy więc zaspokoić swoje zmysły w inny, aczkolwiek już sprawdzony sposób, czyli najeść się po uszy lokalnymi smakołykami.
Zupełnie przypadkowo weszliśmy do leżącej obok posiadłości Sforzów knajpy, która okazała się strzałem w dziesiątkę. Farinella, czyli sieciówka z tradycjami (link). Fajny wystrój, profesjonalna i super uprzejma obsługa, a jedzenie po prostu wyborne. Skosztowaliśmy różnych przystawek, tak mięsnych jak i rybnych, serów, wina no i rzecz jasna pizzy, która wymazała wszystkie złe myśli, jakie wbiła nam do głowy brzydka pogoda. Polecamy z czystym sumieniem.
Proszę się jednak nie zrażać negatywnymi aspektami opowieści, związanymi z kiepską aurą. My potrafimy ściągnąć deszcz w każdy zakątek świata, nawet tam, gdzie chmury nie pokazywały się na niebie od pokoleń. Zwłaszcza Sebastian – swego czasu proponowałam mu nawet, żeby przekuł ten dar w biznes. Jeździlibyśmy na sponsorowane wyprawy w strefy suszy i ściągali jej mieszkańcom zbawienne krople na głowy. Póki co pracujemy nad stroną.
Jeśli chodzi o całokształt wyprawy to jest ona dziecinnie prosta, a dostarcza naprawdę masę pozytywnych wrażeń. Dzięki tanim liniom lotniczym transport jest niskokosztowy, szybki i częsty. Szukajcie więc przede wszystkim połączeń do Bergamo, które tak naprawdę stanowi bramę wjazdową do Mediolanu. I nie tylko do niego. My skoczyliśmy też na romantyczny spacer wokół Jeziora Como. Ale o tym już w kolejnym poście…
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