W szczegóły się wdawać nie zamierzam. Wystarczy napisać, że całkowicie przypadkowo i nieświadomie odczuliśmy na własnej skórze jak bardzo Bangkok potrafi wciągnąć . Nasza rada – nigdy nie proście na Khao San Road o „special drink”, no chyba, że zależy Wam na kilkunastogodzinnym blackoutcie. My okazaliśmy się naiwniakami, jednak jak to mawiają najstarsi górale – ten się nie myli, kto nic nie robi.
Khao San ma jednak kilka zalet. Jedną z nich jest (a na pewno była) obecność kantorów, w których warto wymienić walutę celem spożytkowania jej na wycieczkę z lokalnym biurem podróży. A naprawdę warto się na jakąś zdecydować. Ze względu na ograniczenia czasowe kupiliśmy tylko dwie – pakiet “Świątynia Tygrysów” oraz “Ayutthaya”. Opcji jest jednak znacznie więcej.
Firm turystycznych jest w Bangkoku sporo, myśmy skorzystali z niepozornej kanciapy położonej nieopodal naszego hotelu, sądzę jednak że i tak wszystkie oferują podobne zestawy miejsc do zobaczenia i porównywalną jakość usług. Ceny są bardzo przystępne, poziom zadowalający przeciętnego turystę, no i przede wszystkim jest to naprawdę wygodne rozwiązanie, gwarantujące kompleksowość, szybkość i niezbędny na wakacjach spokój.
Przed wybraniem konkretnej opcji warto poprosić o folder opisujący szczegóły wyprawy w języku Szekspira. Są na to przygotowani i mimo, iż jakość broszur pozostawia wiele do życzenia (dostaniecie powielone niezliczoną ilość razy wydruki komputerowe) to i tak z mojej perspektywy jest to znacznie lepsza opcja niż próba dogadania wszystkiego od początku do końca tylko w rozmowie bezpośredniej.
Tajski angielski brzmi mniej więcej jak mój fiński. Sebastian, z racji tego iż kiedyś pracował z Grekami, nauczył się wyławiać sensowne słowa z dziwnie akcentowanych zbitek. Ja mam z tym jednak spory problem, o czym świadczy chociażby rozmowa z panią przewodnik, która dobre 5 minut mówiła do mnie „Ajutaja cidi”, na co ja jej twardo odpowiadałam, że żadnego CD nie chce, DVD też nie, a tak w ogóle to może wreszcie ruszymy, bo czas mija. Jak się później okazało urocza Tajka pytała czy jadę do Ayutthaya City, czyli miasta położonego około 80 km na północ od Bangkoku. Wiedza ta była jej potrzebna po to, by przykleić nam odpowiedni znaczek – kółko, trójkąt albo przedziwny zestaw figur geometrycznych. W tym szaleństwie była jednak metoda – większość turystów jechało początkowo razem w to samo miejsce, a następnie – w zależności od znaczka – przesiadaliśmy się w poszczególne busy i śmigaliśmy każdy w wybraną jeszcze w biurze podroży stronę.
Rozwiązanie naprawdę rozsądne…tak długo, jak rozumiesz ten ich dziwny akcent. O tym, że problemy mogą mieć zwłaszcza osoby mówiące na co dzień perfekcyjnym angielskim, przekonaliśmy się podczas wycieczki do Świątyni Tygrysów. Poznaliśmy wówczas parę kanadyjskich emerytów, którzy – tak jak my – rozpoczęli zwiedzanie okolic Bangkoku od mostu na rzece Kwai. Następnie zjedliśmy wspólnie wliczony w cenę lunch (swoją drogą w bardzo fajnej scenerii, na pokładzie pływającej chatki), po którym nas rozdzielono. My do dzikich kotów, a oni na rafting. Pani jakieś 80 lat, pan bliżej 90tki, do tego głuchy – wiem, bo do samego końca próbowaliśmy mu wytłumaczyć, że będą teraz spływać na tratwach po rwącej rzece, na co staruszek robił coraz bardziej zdziwioną minę.
A propo mostu na rzece Kwai. Proszę nie spodziewać się jakiś niebywałych doznań. Jest to po prostu…most. Z tłumem ludzi. Któremu zdjęcie warto robić z stojąc na tarasie pobliskiego Muzeum Wojny – z tej perspektywy prezentuje się w pełnej krasie.
Muzeum z kolei przypomina nieco zbiór chaotycznie połączonych rupieci, aczkolwiek przez porównanie z mostem można je nawet uznać za całkiem ciekawe.
Następnie, po niespodziewanie smacznym lunchu, przejechaliśmy przez wodospady Erewan do głównej (z naszego punktu widzenia) atrakcji wycieczki- Świątyni Tygrysów.
O znajdującym się w prowincji Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple czytaliśmy dużo, jeszcze w Polsce. Borykaliśmy się ze sporym dylematem – czy zarządzający tym miejscem mnisi niecnie zarabiają na biednych zwierzętach czy po prostu umożliwiają obcowanie z nimi po to, aby móc utrzymać kompleks rezerwatu. Nie my pierwsi zresztą analizowaliśmy wszystkie za i przeciw- ten położony niedaleko granicy z Birmą klasztor Wat Pa Luangta Bua, znany jako Świątynia Tygrysa, od lat budzi kontrowersje. Że zwierzęta są odurzane narkotykami, torturowane, dręczone. Że to okrutny biznes, a nie dobroczynność. Itp., itd.
Ponieważ nawet nasz przykład pokazuje, że pisać w Internecie może każdy ;), dlatego szukaliśmy osób, które dysponowałyby rzetelnymi informacjami, a nie tylko zasłyszanymi hasłami, które łatwo podłapać. Ostatecznie okazało się, że koleżanka naszej przyjaciółki- miłośniczki zwierząt i wieloletniej aktywistki na ich rzecz- była w tygrysiej świątyni wolontariuszką. Wyjaśniła, że co jak co, ale krzywda tym zwierzętom się absolutnie nie dzieje, o czym świadczyć może chociażby fakt, że cyklicznie przychodzą tam na świat młode. A jak wiadomo w ciężkich warunkach niewoli rozwój gatunku umiera a nie kwitnie w najlepsze. Zapewniła, że mnisi kierują się dobrem zwierząt, a nie miała w tym przecież żadnego osobistego interesu.
Jak jest naprawdę – nie wiem, przy czym – co wyraźnie podkreślić należy, nie zaobserwowaliśmy tam żadnych, widocznych gołym okiem, symptomów męczenia zwierząt. Nie ukrywam również, iż możliwość tak bliskiego obcowania z tymi przepięknymi stworzeniami jest absolutnie niesamowitym doświadczeniem. Jeśli się zdecydujecie na te wycieczkę pamiętajcie jednak, że ramiona i kolana muszą być zakryte, stroje natomiast pozbawione wszelkiego rodzaju frędzelków, zawieszek oraz czerwonych akcentów.
Oprócz tygrysów na terenie Świątyni spotkać można zwierzęta wszelakie, przede wszystkim parzystokopytne wielkoludy, które leniwie przechadzają się w tą i z powrotem, zażywają zbawiennej w czasie upałów kąpieli lub podjadają smakowite kąski w stylu stara opona czy też lusterko samochodowe.
W drodze powrotnej zaliczyliśmy natomiast jazdę Koleją Śmierci. Wbrew nasuwającym się niejednemu czytelnikowi skojarzeniom nie była to SKMka, którą prowadził Leszek Pękalski, lecz zwykły – tyle że wykończony drewnem – pociąg, przewożący codziennie tambylców z punktu A do punktu B.
Skąd więc mało przyjazna nazwa? Otóż ta zbudowana w latach ’40 XX wieku kolej miała służyć za ciąg zaopatrzeniowy armii japońskiej podczas planowanego ataku na Indie. Konstruujący ją jeńcy wojenni, zmuszani do ręcznego układania traktu w wykutych nadrzecznych wąwozach, niejednokrotnie ginęli w czasie pracy – w sumie odnotowano niemalże 100 tysięcy ofiar. Po przybyciu na miejsce dorobiliśmy sobie również własną teorię na ten temat. Znajdujące się niemal pod samym niebem tory tak bardzo nie dają poczucia bezpieczeństwa, jak nie przymierzając jazda rollercosterem bez pasów blokujących. Mimo strachu zebraliśmy jednak w sobie na tyle odwagi, że udało nam się kilka razy wychylić i zobaczyć rzekę, soczystą zieleń, domki na wzgórzach. Warto.
Pointa podróży to wizyta na cmentarzu aliantów. Obejrzenie tych równo poukładanych, przedzielonych porządnie przystrzyżonym trawnikiem identycznych płyt nagrobnych, zajmuje całe 5 minut. Nie lubię cmentarzy, więc rozpisywać się na ten temat nie będę.
Jako drugą zdecydowaliśmy się wykupić u lokalsów wycieczkę do dawnej stolicy Tajlandii – Ayutthaya, która oczywiście – jak to wszystkie topowe atrakcje turystyczne na świecie – wpisana jest na listę dziedzictwa kulturowego UNESCO. Klimatem budowle przypominają kmerski Angkor Wat w Kambodży i przez pierwszą część dnia robią naprawdę imponujące wrażenie (później przeżywa się dzień świstaka, ponieważ wszystkie wyglądają absolutnie tak samo).
Podróż rozpoczęliśmy od maleńkiej wioski, prezentującej dwie starożytne budowle i małe miejsce modlitewne. Przewodnik coś nam na pewno mówił na temat tego dlaczego akurat tam się znaleźliśmy, my jednak byliśmy zainteresowani jedynie wzruszającą symbiozą człowieka z naturą. Bardzo szczupli mieszkańcy wsi dzielili się swym nędznym posiłkiem z wychudzonymi psami i krowami. To było coś pięknego, a jednocześnie bardzo chwytającego za serce.
Co ciekawe, mimo piszącej biedy, miejsca poświęcone wierze niezmiennie prezentowały się majestatycznie.
Następnie, po szybkim przystanku nieopodal pól ryżowych, udaliśmy się na właściwe zwiedzanie zabytkowych ruin. Co tu dużo mówić – bajka. Miejsce tak popularne, że z pewnością przeczytacie o nim w każdym przewodniku. Podobnie zresztą jak o zespole pałacowym Bang Pa-in, do którego udaliśmy się na koniec dnia. Kompleks ten, będący przez wieki letnią rezydencją tajskiej rodziny, jest fantastycznym obszarem spacerowym przy maksymalnie 25’C. My jednak mieliśmy tą wątpliwą przyjemność trafić doń w turboupalny dzień, dlatego zamiast napawać się jego pięknym, szukaliśmy tylko zacienionych miejsc. Bez względu jednak na wszystko konkluzja jest prosta – wycieczka do “Ajutaja Cidi” to pozycja obowiązkowa. Będą Państwo zadowoleni.
Oczywiście jest też mnóstwo innych miejsc, które warto odwiedzić będąc w Bangkoku. My nie mieliśmy niestety wystarczająco dużo czasu- połowę pobytu na tajskiej ziemi przeznaczyliśmy na nadmorski wypoczynek. Ale o tym już w kolejnym poście.
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He put it all down to Mary Harris, she had been his girlfriend for two years, he liked her a lot, she was pretty and intelligent two things that rarely combined in his experience, the problem was she steadfastly refused to let him put his cock inside her, he had thought he was getting somewhere when he took his cock out that evening in the cinema when she had finally allowed him to get his hand inside her panties, it was the first time she had allowed him to do any more than play with her tits. He had taken her hand and placed it on his erection, initially he had been pleased to hear her sharp intake of breath when she felt the size of him and he was encouraged when she began stroking him.
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He put it all down to Mary Harris, she had been his girlfriend for two years, he liked her a lot, she was pretty and intelligent two things that rarely combined in his experience, the problem was she steadfastly refused to let him put his cock inside her, he had thought he was getting somewhere when he took his cock out that evening in the cinema when she had finally allowed him to get his hand inside her panties, it was the first time she had allowed him to do any more than play with her tits. He had taken her hand and placed it on his erection, initially he had been pleased to hear her sharp intake of breath when she felt the size of him and he was encouraged when she began stroking him.
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