Na plaży, bądź co bądź bardzo urokliwej, wytrzymaliśmy cały dzień. A dokładnie dwa razy po pół dnia. Zaraz po przylocie i kolejnego ranka po którejś z bardziej wyczerpujących wycieczek. Wynikało to z naszej niezmiennej nieumiejętności do leżakowania czy też relaksu statycznego. Warto w tym miejscu jednak dodać, że mimo tłumu ludzi Playa del Carmen potrafi naprawdę zauroczyć, zwłaszcza, jeśli nad morze schodzi się przecznicą dalszą niż 35.Wówczas można liczyć nawet na kameralność.
Co zatem robić na meksykańskiej ziemi, gdy smażenie się w słońcu nie stanowi naszej ulubionej rozrywki? Otóż jest wiele możliwości. Naprawdę mnóstwo. Ja opiszę tylko te, z których skorzystaliśmy, jednak miejcie na uwadze, że to tylko sugerowany wycinek.
Jako pierwszą wybraliśmy wycieczkę z lokalnym biurem podróży, co w ostatecznym rozrachunku uważam za niezłe rozwiązanie. Przekonaliśmy się wówczas na własne oczy, że Jukatan to całkowicie bezpieczny region z bardzo dobrze utrzymaną infrastrukturą wszelaką, dlatego też kolejne destynacje pokonywaliśmy już na własną rękę.
Po stargowaniu ceny prawie o połowę kupiliśmy pakiet „Chichén Itzá- Cenoty- Valladolid”. Oszczędzę sobie i Wam opisu atrakcji związanych z podróżowaniem z grupą przypadkowo dobranych turystów. Przypomina to mniej więcej próbę włożenia trzech ośmiornic do szydełkowych torebek na zakupy rodem z PRL. Mordęga.
Naszym pierwszym przystankiem było cenote, z języka Maya dzonot, czyli rodzaj bardzo popularnej na półwyspie, naturalnej studni krasowej, powstałej w skale wapiennej, w której zażywa się kąpieli na wiele sposobów – dryfując, pływając, skacząc, zjeżdżając doń na linie, snorklując lub nurkując z akwalungiem. Ze względu na ograniczenia czasowe pozwoliliśmy sobie jedynie na pływanie (uwaga dla ciepłolubnych- z 15 minut zajęło mi samo wchodzenie do tego skalnego zbiornika) i robienie licznych zdjęć, podczas gdy część osób czekała w kolejce na kamiennym wzniesieniu, by oddać epicki skok w czarną otchłań. Polecamy gorąco te formę aktywności, żałując niebywale, że skorzystaliśmy z niej tylko raz.
Następnie dotarliśmy do clue programu, czyli prekolumbijskiego miasta Majów- Chichén Itzá. Oprócz tego, że obiekt jest wpisany na listę światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO, to jeszcze w lipcu 2007ogłoszono go jednym z siedmiu cudów świata. Robi wrażenie, zwłaszcza imponująca Piramida Kukulkana, która co prawda nie jest tak wysoka jak egipska Cheopsa, za to jak się koło niej zaklaszcze w dość charakterystyczny sposób, wydaje śmiesznie wibrujące dźwięki.
Niestety ze względu na odnotowane wypadki śmiertelne nie można się po niej wspinać. Dla bardziej aktywnych Chichén przewidziało Wielkie Boisko do Gry w Piłkę, które ze swoimi ponad 120 metrami długości jest największym na terenie Mezoameryki.
Przyznam jednak bez bicia, że o ile dla pasjonatów archeologicznych jest to prawdopodobnie istny raj na ziemi, my znudziliśmy się całością stosunkowo szybko. Tym bardziej, że na terenie obiektu są całe stada, nierzadko dość osobliwych, turystów, robiących miliony przezabawnych zdjęć w stylu „podpieram krzywą wieżę w Pizie” i jeszcze więcej sprzedawców, którzy mają w zasadzie wszystko (no, może poza lodówkami, a te przydałyby się zwiedzającym bardzo. Albowiem mimo zachmurzonego nieba, temperatura bywa bardzo wysoka, wilgotność jeszcze wyższa, co bardzo utrudnia czerpanie przyjemności ze zwiedzania).
Pamiątki wyglądają na robione małymi chińskimi rączkami, ale co bardziej obrotni handlarze odstawiali przedziwne szopki, aby uwiarygodnić, iż jest meksykański hand made.
I tu anegdotka. Gdy jeden ze sklepikarzy usłyszał w jakim języku mówimy, chwycił zdobioną w esy floresy damską bluzkę i patrząc mi głęboko w oczy krzyknął „Niedrogo”. Ponieważ grzecznie, acz stanowczo odmówiłam, niestrudzony sprzedawca wytoczył cięższy arsenał, przekonując , że „Tanio”. Oddalając się w stronę autokaru kątem oka zauważyłam, że zafrapowany jak by mnie tu przekonać, próbuje sobie coś przypomnieć. I gdy już sądziliśmy, że zrezygnował, dobiegło nas odkrywcze „Taniej niż w Biedronce!”. Bluzki co prawda nie kupiłam, ale Panu spokojnie mogę nadać tytuł sprzedawcy roku.
Gdy dotarliśmy do autokaru, wypucowanego na błysk okazało się, że prawie nikogo nie ma. Ostatnia para spóźniła się na umówioną godzinę zbiórki 45 minut, co spowodowało, że na nasz ostatni postój- kolonialne Valladolid- przeznaczono jedynie pół godziny.
Trudno mi zatem wypowiedzieć się na temat tego urokliwego miasteczka, ponieważ byliśmy jedynie w jego ścisłym centrum, jednak ten czas wystarczył, aby uznać je za naprawdę ładne. Nie dziwota, w 2012 r. stało się ono częścią programu „Magiczne Miasteczka”, będącego inicjatywą Meksykańskiej Izby Turystycznej.
Spacerując po wysadzanym zdobionymi ławeczkami parku, oglądaliśmy spokojnych mieszkańców, nierzadko ubranych w tradycyjne majańskie stroje, opychaliśmy churrosami i marquesitas , czyli deserem który wygląda jak rurka z bitą śmietaną, ale tak naprawdę jest chrupkim naleśnikiem. My wybraliśmy skromnie wypełnienie z Nutelli, wersja de luxe przewidywała natomiast , poza kremem czekoladowym, majonez, bitą śmietanę, konfitury i ser żółty. Szacun dla koneserów.
Wycieczka ta, mimo iż w ostatecznym rozrachunku udana, skłoniła nas do dalszego podróżowania na własną rękę. I tak np. do kolejnych ruin, czyli Coby, dojechaliśmy już sami autobusem ADO, w którym poznaliśmy 17letniego Bydgoszczanina. Co ciekawe- chłopak chciał wyjechać na wymianę licealistów do Australii, ale czegoś niedopilnowali w sekretariacie i trafił do Tijuany. To jest dopiero głęboka woda dorosłości.
Wracając do Coby. To znajdujące się w stanie Quintana Roo miasto podobało nam się znacznie bardziej niż jego skomercjonalizowani konkurenci raz – ze względu na mniejszy tłok, dwa- znajduje się ono w środku lasu a poszczególne obiekty ulokowane są w różnych odległościach, co pozwala na aktywne zwiedzanie (leniwi turyści znajdą dla siebie alternatywę- rowerowe ryksze, dosyć tanie i liczne) no i trzy- na jedną z piramid można się wdrapać i podziwiać okolicę z jej szczytu.
Jako człowiek czasami całkowicie bezmyślny założyłam na te wycieczkę sandałki- błąd. Fatalne obuwie wspinaczkowe. Podobnie jak japonki.
Zwłaszcza, gdy na miejscu wita nas typowa dla tego regionu aura- czasem słońce, czasem deszcz, spora wilgotność, duchota = śliskie schodki, zasapanie, pot kapiący pod stopy. Ale naprawdę warto, tym bardziej, że niebawem także i tam wspinać się nie będzie można. Ciekawi historycznych niuansów mogą skorzystać z usług przewodnika, nam wystarczyły obfite w informacje tabliczki.
Ze względu na lekki przesyt ruinami postanowiliśmy zmienić kategorię wycieczkową i postawić na obcowanie z naturą. O tym jaki kierunek wybraliśmy i dlaczego właśnie ten – już w kolejnym poście.
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