Tulum czyli relaks przez gigantyczne R

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Nauczeni wieloletnim doświadczeniem wiemy, że podczas każdej podróży, a zwłaszcza długiej i bardzo aktywnej, należy wygospodarować sobie czas na relaks. I nie ma, że się zanudzisz, że oszalejesz przez leniuchowanie, że wszystkie książki, gazety, a nawet listy składników z kosmetyków przeczytane. Odpoczynek musi być. W przeciwnym wypadku wracasz z wakacji i już od progu mieszkania zapisujesz się na turnus do Ciechocinka.

My oczywiście głównie latamy jak kot z pęcherzem, w bazach noclegowych śpiąc jedynie po kilka godzin, dlatego do zakwaterowania nie przywiązujemy zbyt dużej uwagi. Inaczej jednak sprawa wygląda, gdy chodzi o leżenie do góry brzuchem. Późny Gierek mógłby być nazbyt depresyjny, marmury i złocenia krępować, a czternastoosobowy pokój wywoływać mordercze odruchy.

Po przeszperaniu Internetu uznaliśmy, że najlepszym miejscem na meksykańskie chill będzie Tulum, niewielka wioska rybacka, położona rzut beretem od Playa del Carmen. Asekuracyjnie, gdybyśmy zupełnie nie wiedzieli co ze sobą robić, graniczy z jednej strony z położonymi na klifie Morza Karaibskiego i otoczonymi murem ruinami, z drugiej zaś z rezerwatem biosfery Sian Ka’an. Ale to tylko just in case.

Wybierając hotel sugerowaliśmy się bliskością linii brzegowej – to miał być morza szum, ptaków śpiew, z dala od wszelkiej współczesnej cywilizacji. W ścisłym centrum miasteczka są raczej hostele (do jednego z nich zawiózł nas początkowo taksówkarz, który mimo, iż znał właściwy adres uznał, że wyglądamy na backpackerskich 16latków i musieliśmy się pomylić). Nad wodą natomiast urocze, małe hoteliki, w których idealnie ładuje się baterie.

Taki właśnie był nasz Tulum Bay (http://tulumbay.com), którego recenzję napisaną przez Sebastiana znajdziecie pod tym linkiem.

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Było bosko. Śniadanie naprawdę inaczej smakuje, gdy się je spożywa w takich okolicznościach przyrody. I nawet jeśli pogoda nie sprzyja (co akurat nie stanowi jakiejś nad wyraz wyjątkowej okoliczności na wybrzeżu karaibskim), jest się najszczęśliwszą osobą pod słońcem. A jak pada na tyle intensywnie,  że nawet joga na plaży przestaje relaksować, można sobie poczytać na tarasie albo pograć w karty.

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Śniadania w Tulumbay nie są niestety zbyt obfite, dlatego szybko robiliśmy się głodni. Obok hotelu jest kilka knajp, które rezerwowaliśmy na wieczór, w ciągu dnia natomiast żywiliśmy się przekąskami hand made ze składników kupionych w hipermarkecie. Do którego owszem, można się dostać spacerem, tyle że nieco dłuższym, bo cała droga zajmuje ok 6 km w obydwie strony. Większy wybór jeśli chodzi o posiłki jest w samym centrum, ale komu by się tam chciało zasuwać kiedy pod nosem piękne widoki.

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Poza czytaniem, słuchaniem muzyki w hamaku, robieniem zdjęć z platformy widokowej, można pospacerować po okolicznych plażach, które są bardzo malownicze, a także zamieszkałe przez rożnego rodzaje zwierzynę. Z przeważającym akcentem pelikanów i legwanów zielonych.

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Zgodnie z przewidywaniami nie udało nam się spędzić pełnych czterech dni w sposób totalnie statyczny, więc uznaliśmy, że kolejne majańskie ruiny powinny wypełnić aktywność dnia ostatniego. Ze względu na odległość od zdecydowanej większości hoteli najłatwiej się do nich dostać taksówką, na rowerze, albo…werble…skuterem. Tak, wiem, dla większości jazda tym ostatnim środkiem lokomocji nie jest niczym nadzwyczajnym. Dla mnie natomiast był to pierwszy raz, więc atrakcja podwójna.

Zalecamy przybycie do ruin o świcie- później, mimo sporej przestrzeni obiektu, tłumy turystów nie pozwalają na w pełni swobodne zwiedzanie.  Warto również wziąć ze sobą stroje kąpielowe i ręczniki – prosto z zabytków jest zejście na przyjemne wybrzeże.

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Obok ruin znajduje się “centrum”, będące paździerzowym jarmarkiem. Można tam zobaczyć m.in. popularnych na Jukatanie artystów regionalnych, którzy wykonują dziwne, nie do końca zrozumiałe dla nas akrobacje. Tacy ludzie orkiestry od czapy. Można też sobie zrobić za kasę zdjęcie z takim samym legwanem, jakiego spotyka się w Meksyku na każdym kroku.

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Jako że na ruiny wystarcza niecałe dwie godziny, a my mieliśmy wypożyczony skuter na 6 razy dłużej, postanowiliśmy udać się w stronę rezerwatu Sian Ka’an. Niestety jeździliśmy totalnym rzęchem, któremu popsuł się wskaźnik benzyny, więc woleliśmy nie ryzykować całonocnym postojem w środku dżungli pełnej dzikich zwierząt, i odbyliśmy jedynie preludium do trasy właściwej. Ale i tak było warto.

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Za sam wjazd na teren parku należy uiścić jakąś symboliczną opłatę – piszemy o tym, bo bezgotówkowa podróż może Wam się zupełnie nie opłacić. Tym bardziej, że po drodze mija się absolutnie rajskie, prywatne plaże, na które wstęp również kilka pesos kosztuje. (te ogólnodostępne też są niezłe- można natrafić na całkiem fajną).

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W którym by się jednak miejscu Tulum nie było, bez względu na pogodę, sposób przemieszczania się, czy dzień tygodnia, warto mieć przy sobie aparat. Bo tam jest po prostu niewymownie pięknie.

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      • Sebastian

        W momencie kiedy rezerwowaliśmy hotels.com miał lepszą cene niż booking na pokój z balkonem i widokiem na plażę i tu właśnie rezerwowaliśmy. Kilka cennych porad o pokoju i okolicy znajdziecie też w naszej recenzji tego miejsca na TripAdvisor 🙂

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  465. Jamal Musiala https://jamal-musiala.prostoprosport-fr.com footballeur allemand, milieu offensif du club allemand du Bayern et du equipe nationale d’Allemagne. Il a joue pour les equipes anglaises des moins de 15 ans, des moins de 16 ans et des moins de 17 ans. En octobre 2018, il a dispute deux matchs avec l’equipe nationale d’Allemagne U16. En novembre 2020, il a fait ses debuts avec l’equipe d’Angleterre U21.

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  479. Mohamed Salah https://mohamedsalah.prostoprosport-br.com e um futebolista egipcio que joga como atacante do clube ingles Liverpool e do Selecao egipcia. Considerado um dos melhores jogadores de futebol do mundo. Tricampeao da Chuteira de Ouro da Premier League inglesa: em 2018 (sozinho), 2019 (junto com Sadio Mane e Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang) e 2022 (junto com Son Heung-min).

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