Na wstępie zaznaczę, że kolejność ważących tyle co złoto porad, nie ma znaczenia. W tym, jak i w następnym poście (jeden całości nie obejmie) jestem jak Szalony Kapelusznik i piszę o wszystkim, co mi akurat przyjdzie do głowy. A będzie tego sporo, ponieważ wakacje na Kaukazie wspominam jako jedno z lepszych doświadczeń życia.
1. Jest bezpiecznie. Naprawdę. W odniesieniu do innych krajów, typu Brazylia, napisałabym “Zwiedzajcie raczej w ciągu dnia i będzie ok, bylebyście tylko nie świecili zbytnio biżuterią”. Jeśli zaś chodzi o Gruzję, możecie zasuwać po mieście obwieszeni złotymi kajdanami niczym amerykańscy raperzy, z grillami na zębach, diamentami w uszach i posrebrzanymi soczewkami do oczu – nikt nie zwróci na Was uwagi, ponieważ jest to tam wiodąca stylówa. Podobnie zresztą jak długie spodnie, głównie jeansy, nawet przy 40’C.
2. Nie należy się również bać psów. Tych bezpańskich jest niestety bardzo dużo, jednak są naprawdę łagodne, przytulaśne, chętne do zabawy i jedzenia, dlatego też warto mieć zawsze przy sobie jakiś smakołyk w podorędziu (ja w pewnym momencie nosiłam w torebce pęto kiełbasy, paczkę parówek i sucharki). Brak agresji wynika chyba z faktu niezłej synergii człowieka z naturą, za co duże brawa, ponieważ w wielu krajach wrzuconych do kategorii tych bardziej rozwiniętych, wygląda to nierzadko znacznie gorzej.
3. Nie trzeba niczego rezerwować. Tzn. warto zacząć od polecanego przez nas hostelu w Kutaisi (o którym w kolejnym poście), a później już David, Beka albo Nina zadzwonią gdzie trzeba i załatwią Wam co będziecie chcieli. Prawdę mówiąc to mamy znacznie więcej wartych polecenia kontaktów, ale wszystko w swoim czasie (niecierpliwców zapraszam na priv)
4. Można spać, gdzie się chce. Rozbić namiot na kaukaskich wyżynach, na nadmorskiej plaży (co jest dość karkołomnym pomysłem, ponieważ są one zazwyczaj kamieniste), walnąć na ławce w parku i nikt się do nas nie przyczepi. Jeśli więc jakimś cudem nie znaleźlibyście miejsca noclegowego (chociaż prędzej Janusz Korwin – Mikke przyjmie na kwadrat rodzinę uchodźców) – możecie śmiało położyć się tam, gdzie stoicie. Także pełen chill.
5. Przez cały pobyt je się chleb i pierogi i nie ma się ich wcale dość No dobra, tak z 12 dni się nie ma. Później obsesyjno-kompulsywnie pochłania się wszystko, co zielone i bez mąki. Co do zasady jednak, że też posłużę się tym niedorzecznym prawniczym hasłem – kto nie chciałby wsuwać zrobionych z makaronowego ciasta sakiewek, wypełnionych aromatycznym rosołem oraz mięsem, serem albo rybą? Czyli nieziemsko smacznych chinkali, do jedzenia których koniecznie trzeba przejść przeszkolenie – pamiętajcie o tym, żeby później nie lecieć z płaczem i poplamionym odzieniem do Zygmunta Chajzera. To jedna z dwóch najpopularniejszych gruzińskich potraw. Ex aequo z nią czołowe miejsce na podium zajmuje chaczapuri, czyli placek z serem, występujący w kilku odmianach. I tak na przykład adżarski ma dodatkowo jajko, zaś imeretyński – pastę z czerwonej fasoli. Wariacji smaków, kształtów i podania jest oczywiście znacznie więcej. Na śniadanie zaś zjada się przeważnie wypiek przypominający w smaku spód od pizzy, jeno nie okrągły, a raczej łódkowaty, a do tego kawał lokalnego sera. Na próżno natomiast szukać niskotłuszczowych jogurtów o smaku agawy z nutką mango albo orzechowej granoli na mleku sojowym. A także warzyw. Cierpiący na brak zieleniny mogą liczyć na dwa “dania” – polaną oliwą sałatkę z ogórka, pomidora i kolendry albo bakłażany z pastą orzechową i pestkami granatu. Jeśli więc zobaczycie, że ktoś ma w walizce dwadzieścia kalafiorów – nie wytykajcie go palcami. Wie, co robi.
6. Wproście się na suprę. Być w Gruzji i nie przeżyć supry to jak pojechać do Nowego Yorku i nie zrobić sobie selfie ze Statuą Wolności. My mieliśmy to wyjątkowe szczęście, że już pierwszego wieczoru zostaliśmy zaproszeni na te tradycyjną gruzińską ucztę do właścicieli hostelu (były też niestety plusy ujemne tej imprezy, ale ze względu na co wrażliwsze czytelnicze oczy, ograniczę się jedynie do stwierdzenia faktu, że pić to trzeba umieć). Posiadówa ta ma kilka cech wyróżniających ją z ogółu pospolitych spotkań. Po pierwsze stoły są tak suto zastawione, że talerze ustawia się piętrowo, bo jedzenia wraz z upływem czasu paradoksalnie przybywa. Po drugie, albo raczej po zerowe, jej przebieg nadzoruje tamada, czyli taki MC, którym zazwyczaj jest gospodarz. Nasz zaprosił wtedy chyba wszystkich, którzy znajdowali się w promieniu 20 kilometrów od jego domu. Kluczowy rytuał, za który tamada jest odpowiedzialny, to wznoszenie toastów. Ale nie swojskich “chluśniem, bo uśniem”, “no to chlup” i moje ulubione (nad wyraz ascetyczne w formie, a jakże dobitne) – “także ten”. Wypowiadane przez niego słowa to prawdziwe tyrady z przesłaniem i sensem. Za bliskich, za tych, których nie ma już z nami, za zdrowie, za dobrobyt. Podobno jest nawet ustalony porządek tematyczny, ale nie wychwyciliśmy go na początku (a później w ogóle już niczego nie chwytaliśmy, za to było nam nieziemsko dobrze). Na toast należy odpowiedzieć gaumardżos, co oznacza “za nasze zwycięstwo” ( czyli w potocznym rozumieniu “na zdrowie”). I tu pułapka. Jeśli podniesiecie kielich, wypełniony zazwyczaj domowej roboty winem, to albo odstawiacie go, nie zamoczywszy nawet ust, albo musicie wychylić do dna. Z czym związana jest kolejna wskazówka.
7. Nigdy, ale to przenigdy, nie zakładajcie się, że macie mocniejszą głowę, niż Gruzin. Po prostu nie. A już broń Boże nie o to, że wypijecie za jednym zamachem toast z rogu wiszącego od pokoleń nad kominkiem gospodarza domu. No chyba, że lubicie wracać na chatę w poziomie. Zresztą serwowanymi trunkami należy się delektować, ponieważ są bardzo dobre. I zazwyczaj własnej roboty. A tak na marginesie – warto przywieźć sobie miniaturową wersje kielichoroga jako pamiątkę z podróży. W tym celu udajcie się na targ ze starociami, wtedy jest większa szansa na oryginał.
8. Do knajpy można przynieść własne wino. Np. w pięciolitrowym baniaku po minerałce. Kelner przelewa je do karafki i serwuje wraz z zamówionymi daniami. Podobnie bywa też z czaczą, czyli gruzińskim winiokiem produkowanym z wytłoków winogronowych. To taki bimber, który dość szybko przenosi do świata bajkowego.
9. Jeśli chodzi o pozostałe produkty winogronowopochodne, wybornym przysmakiem jest gruziński Snickers, czyli churchele. Wygląda dość osobliwie, jednak nie należy na to zwracać specjalnie uwagi, tylko kupować ile tylko się da i spożywać na miejscu albo po jakimś czasie – dość długo zachowuje przydatność do spożycia. Najlepiej w zestawie ze sprasowanym sokiem, który się żuje. Ten z kolei wygląda jak kolorowa płyta gramofonowa. Ale jak już wspominałam jedzenie jest od konsumowania, a nie patrzenia (i nawet Wojciech Modest Amaro nie wmówi mi, że jest inaczej).
10. Korzystajcie z usług kierowcy. My mieliśmy ogromną przyjemność być wożeni przez polskiego studenta, który wziął sobie dziekankę na uczelni, kupił rozklekotanego vana i eksplorował z turystami Gruzję wzdłuż i wszerz. Namiar do niego dał nam oczywiście właściciel hostelu w Kutaisi. Jeśli jedziecie większą grupą to jest to absolutnie najlepsze, najtańsze i najwygodniejsze rozwiązanie. Ale i naszej dwójki nie uderzyło zbytnio po kieszeni, natomiast było wybitnie komfortowe. Niby można też wypożyczyć samochód i prowadzić go samemu, jednak koszt jest porównywalny, a stan (tak samochodów jak i rozweselonych czaczą kierowców)oraz oznakowanie tras nierzadko pozostawia wiele do życzenia. W przypadku wypadu totalnie low costowego można skorzystać bezpiecznie ze stopa albo wsiąść do marszrutki, ale z nimi różnie bywa. Na dłuże trasy polecam pociągi, które mają na pokładzie nawet Wi-Fi. Zresztą potrzeba matką wynalazku – gdy zmęczeni wracaliśmy ze znajomymi ze wspinaczki na lodowiec zapakowaliśmy się na tył śmieciarki. Szczęśliwie wiozła same butelki pet, które przy wybojach nieźle amortyzują cztery litery.
Póki co kończę pierwszą część Vademecum Polskiego Turysty w Gruzji, ale ostrzcie już sobie zęby na kolejne posty. Chodzi o kraj, który gwarantuje cały wachlarz najlepszych z możliwych doświadczeń.
Świetny tekst 🙂 Gruzja to kolejny kierunek, który zamierzam obrać, choć pewnie przez rekonwalescencję dopiero w przyszłym roku
Dzięki wielkie! Jak najbardziej zachęcamy do wizyty w Gruzji, w miarę możliwości oczywiście, jak najszybciej 🙂 Zapraszamy też do częstszych wizyt na naszym blogu ponieważ już niedługo pojawią się kolejne, bardziej praktyczne wpisy. Życzymy szybkiego powrotu do zdrowia!
Takie małe sprostowanie i ostrzeżenie dotyczące psów. O ile psy w miastach i wioskach są naprawdę fajne, to o psach w górach już bym tego nie powiedział. Są znacznie większe niż te, które możemy zobaczyć w Polsce, a do tego mogą być naprawdę bardzo agresywne. Związane jest to z tym, że rzadko schodzą z gór i generalnie żyją tylko i wyłącznie gdzieś wysoko wraz ze swoim Panem. One nie mają kontaktu z innymi ludźmi i są przez to na w pół dzikie. Ta informacja niech służy tym, którzy zamierzają uprawiać trekking wysoko w górach.
Aha, uwaga też na niedźwiedzie w górach ! 😉
Po za tym Gruzja to bajka, kraina winem i czaczą płynąca.
Pozdrawiam 😉
Bardzo wysoko w górach nie byliśmy. Mieliśmy jedynie okazję eksplorować Mestię, Uszguli i ich okolice.
Zgodzę się, że psy są znacznie większe, ale mimo gabarytów nadal były bardzo łagodne.
Niemniej jednak 100% prawdy jest w tym, że każdorazowo należy zachować rozsądek. W końcu to tylko zwierzę.
Niezależnie od tego, czy chcemy je pogłaskać na molo w Sopocie czy włócząc się po Kaukazie.
A Gruzja rzeczywiście jest bajką – z biegiem czasu tęsknimy coraz mocniej 🙂
Sprostowanie kolejne co do psów. W miastach owszem miłe ale dziś na plaźy kolo Batumi,sfora na wpół dzikich psów się na mnie rzuciła. Uciekajac poślizgnàłem się i wpadłem do wody rozcinajàc sie w kilku miejscach. Na szczescie mili gruzini zdezynfekowali mnie chacha
A ile czasu spędziliście w Gruzji i kiedy?
Co do psów to zgadzam się w pełni z @Marek- niektóre może i są łagodne, ale często zbierają się w wygłodniałe watahy i włóczą po wsiach, wtedy już nie jest bezpiecznie mieć je w pobliżu.
Świetny tekst! Bardzo przydatne rady. Czy możecie zdradzić nazwę tego hostelu w Kutaisi?
Dziękujemy 🙂 Namiary na hostel oraz inne przydatne wskazówki znajdziesz w naszym poście o Kutaisi – zapraszmy: http://www.dosvagabundos.pl/?p=1121 (zamieścilismy tu link do fanpage hostelu na FB). Zachęcamy również do przeczytania drugiej części Vademecum Polskiego Turysty w Gruzji (http://www.dosvagabundos.pl/?p=1042), gdzie zamieścilismy inne ogólne wskazówki 🙂
Dzięki za wszystkie wskazówki. Bardzo przyjemnie czytało się ten wpis.
Pozdrawiam,
Kamil
Bardzo dziękujejmy za miłe słowa i cieszymy się żeśmy pomogli ☺️
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