O tym, że w Izraelu jedzenie jest drogie, mówili nam wszyscy. Nie przypuszczaliśmy jednak, że aż tak. Pierwszego wieczora, chcąc zaoszczędzić, poszliśmy do supermarketu Am Pm i za dwa jogurty, 3 pomidory, paczkę sera, kilka plasterków wędliny, wodę i wino zapłaciliśmy w przeliczeniu na złotówki 100 PLN (przy czym dodam, że wino kosztowało ok 30zł). Przytkało nas konkretnie. Później okazało się, że czasami w tych mniejszych sklepikach lokalsów było nawet ciut taniej, więc nie dajcie się nabrać na przewagę giganta. W pierwszej chwili żeśmy się nieco podłamali, ale później przypomniałam sobie, że jeszcze w Warszawie pospisywałam kiedyś różne tipy dotyczące oszczędnego stołowania się w Tel Awiwie, więc uznałam, że czas najwyższy je wykorzystać. Teraz biję sobie brawo za ten pomysł – udało nam się posilać smacznie i tanio. Gdzie? Oto kilka sprawdzonych miejscówek (podlinkowujemy celem łatwiejszego ich odnalezienia)
Sporo budek z różnym street i fast foodem. Oczywiście falafel, ale i kebab, dania z mięsem na talerz, tapasy, trochę kuchni meksykańskiej czy marokańskiej. Oprócz tego mnóstwo produktów do przygotowania posiłku w pokoju, aczkolwiek biorąc pod uwagę dobre ceny niekoniecznie się to opłaca na obiady – śniadania, kolacje i desery już jak najbardziej mogą być w wersji take away. Na pewno opyla się nabyć pieczywo, fajna piekarnia jest od strony dworca autobusowego, ponadto świeże warzywa, owoce, oliwki, sery, no i lokalne łakocie. A także przyprawy oraz herbaty do domu, również jako suweniry. Gdzie te wszystkie cuda? Tuż obok przecięcia ulic Allenby i King George. Na tymże skrzyżowaniu jest też naprawdę smaczny falafel, ale kosztuje już więcej niż na Carmelu bo 16 NIS (na potrzeby niniejszego tekstu umówmy się, że 1 NIS = 1 zł. To kwoty przybliżone, ale pi razy oko tak się właśnie przelicza), podczas gdy ceny bazarowe to nawet 7 NIS (skręcajcie w boczne uliczki, tam też są fajne dziuple). Poznany w samolocie powrotnym do Polski chłopak, który na codzień pracuje w Izraelu twierdził, że na King Georgu jest budka serwująca falafele nawet za 5 NIS, ale myśmy do niej niestety nie dotarli. Warto się jednak przejść tą ulicą, po obydwu stronach będziecie mieli knajpek do wyboru do koloru.
Zaraz przy wejściu na Carmel, od strony wspomnianego skrzyżowania Allenby i King George, po prawej stronie, natraficie na makaroniarnie. Bardzo fajny pomysł. Cena wyjściowa wszystkich kluch, poza gnocchi i ravioli (bo one kosztowały dodatkowo 8 NIS) to 21 zeta. Do tego wybiera się różne sosy (na zdjęciach nasza ulubiona rosa z pomidorów i śmietany) plus jak ktoś jeszcze chce dodatki warzywne, nabiałowe, rybne. Jak dobrze pójdzie można się najeść domowym makaronem za niespełna 30zł od łebka. Opcja smaczna i sycąca, wszystko szybko i sprawnie, a zarazem kulturalnie przy stolikach, czasem i nawet z karafką wina do popicia.
Sabich na ulicy Tchernikhovsky
Na wstępie krótkie wyjaśnienie co to za dziwo ten sabich. Nie zaskoczymy Was z pewnością informując, iż jest to rodzaj popularnego, izraelskiego street foodu składającego się z pity (oczywiście) i wypełnienia, bardzo podobnego do falafela czy kebabu, z tą jednak różnicą, że pierwsze skrzypce grają w nim plasterki smażonego bakłażana oraz gotowane jajko. Absolutnie najpyszniejszy serwują w niepozornej klitce pod wskazanym w tytule akapitu adresem, ulokowanej niedaleko Bialik House. Jak poinformowały nas czekające w kolejce dziewczyny wybór dodatków należy pozostawić w gestii serwującego danie, bo on, nie wiem w sumie na jakiej podstawie, wie co komu będzie smakowało. Miały rację, pyyyyycha. 20 NIS. W innych miejscach też jest dobry, ale tam wręcz wybitny.
Przedostatniego dnia mieliśmy serdecznie dosyć buł, ciecierzycy, bakłażanów i hummusa, dlatego szukaliśmy jakiejś alternatywny. Opatrzność skierowała nas na ulicę Ben Yehuda 9, gdzie znajduje się knajpka z przepysznymi dim sumami oraz innymi specjałami kuchni chińskiej, w tym pożywnymi, aromatycznymi zupami. Jak dla nas super smak a do tego ceny, jak na Tel Awiw, bardzo przystępne.
Ok, to miejsce wpisujemy trochę na wyrost, ponieważ nie korzystaliśmy z jego usług, ale słyszeliśmy mnóstwo dobrego. Knajpa słynie z porcji nie do przejedzenia. Za ok 100 zł od osoby dostaje się posiłków jak dla całej armii i mało kto jest w stanie to pochłonąć. Kwota wbrew pozorom wcale nie zawrotna. Dla porównania – w znajdującym się nieopodal naszego hotelu barze miska barszczu ukraińskiego kosztowała “jedyne” 45zł. Do porządnych knajp nawet nie zaglądaliśmy. “Stary człowiek” za to i wygląda przyzwoicie, tak z zewnątrz jak i w środku, i polecają go w zasadzie wszyscy, więc i my sugerujemy tym, którzy nie często i mało, a raz i do pełna lubią się stołować. To popularne miejsce znajduje się w porcie w Old Jaffie, naprawdę nie sposób je przeoczyć.
Rosyjskie monopolowe oraz opcje Happy Hours
No i na koniec kwestia równie ważna co jedzenie, tym bardziej na wakacjach. Mianowicie- alkohol. Znowu – przy tamtejszych cenach nietrudno zostać abstynentem, zwłaszcza jeśli się lubi wznosić toasty czystą. Na szczęście wino nie było jakoś powalająco drogie, ale nadal – stawki mało Biedronkowe. Dlatego też warto namierzyć sklepy prowadzone np. przez Rosjan (jeden znajduje się przy wyjściu z Carmel Market, od strony dworca). Ewentualnie obczaić knajpy z drinkami w opcji happy hours, czyli mniej więcej w godzinach 16-20, od poniedziałku do czwartku. W przeciwnym wypadku pozostaje mineralna i rumianek. My upatrzyliśmy sobie Gelua Bar z pyszną caipirinhą, super barmanem i przytulaśnym psem właściciela. Ekstra klimat, koniecznie poszukajcie ich po sprawdzeniu podlinkowania na mapie. Serwują tam też pizze, burgery i inne frytki, ale żeśmy nie kosztowali.
Aha, jeszcze informacyjny gratis. Miejsce może nie do końca tanie (biorąc pod uwagę stosunek ceny do wielkości porcji i kosztu składników), ale mocno hipsterskie, przeżywające chyba właśnie swoje 5 minut, z nietypowymi wariacjami na temat typowej izraelskiej kuchni ulicznej. Ulokowany na King George 30 Miznon zachwycił mnie pitą (oczywiście) z pieczonym kalafiorem. Po młodzieżowemu stwierdzę, że totalny sztos. Ogólnie to kremowe warzywo króluje w ich kuchni pod różnymi postaciami. W prostocie tkwi siła i knajpka ta wie jak ją wydobyć. Mięsożercy niech się nie martwią- dla nich również znajdzie się co nieco. Musicie być jednak przygotowani na gigantyczne kolejki i zgiełk, ale chociaż raz warto warto się tam pojawić.
No cóż, mam nadzieję, że pomogliśmy. Aha, i nie krępujcie się zabrać trochę jedzenia z domu. My mieliśmy w walizce masło orzechowe, pieczywo, pasty warzywne i pasztety i muszę przyznać, że trochę nam to tyłki uratowało. Powodzenia!
Gosha
Cześc,
Super blog. W środę wybieramy się na kilka dni do Izraela i bez wątpienia blog pomoże nam w podróży bo zawiera wiele praktycznych wskazówek;)
pozdrawiam
Dosvagabundos
Dziękujemy. Wspaniałej podróży zatem!
Marcin
Troskę się naszukalismy Sabich ale warto było ( adres dla ułatwienia Sabich
Tchernikhovski St 2, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Izrael
+972 50-530-6654
https://maps.google.com/?cid=2073385308632361422)
Nkna
Nie da się czytać tych blogów …. wszyscy piszą ze drogo… gdzie jest niby drogo? Sorrru ale jak was nie stać na dania w polskich cenach to po co jeździć na wycieczki? Koszmar….. jestem w Izrael i jakis ceny są normalnne ….nie wiem gdzie wy podrozowaliscid …
Danzig
Bardzo trafne uwagi, skorzystaliśmy.
Nizinna znaleźliśmy wcześniej sami, przez przypadek. Miejsce odjechane, ale ich kebsy czy sabichy genialne.
Jeden minus: porcje małe, a ceny wysokie. Średnio 50 ILS za pitę z nadzieniem. Na szczescie obok sa AmsterdamFries i można się dopchać.
Polecam także kebaby prowadzone przez lokalsów. 20 ILS za falafela. Nie pamietam gdzie to było, gdzieś w okolicach promenady, idąc w górę od morza (wielka fontanna) w strone HaCarmel (Izraelu kebab)
Danzig
Miznona, miało byc:)
whereismyprosecco
Jedzenie w Tel avivie jest świetne 🙂 Miałam okazję być na początku kwietnia a po powrocie również przygotowałam wpis na ten temat na moim blogu – zapraszam w wolnej chwili 🙂
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