“Chcę jeszcze raz pojechać do Europy
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Podróżować, podróżować jest bosko”
Zapewne mało oryginalnie zacznę, ale cóż zrobić, skoro zgadzam się w pełni z Korą – Buenos jest naprawdę boskie. I nie chodzi tu o konkretne zabytki czy atrakcje, tylko o wyjątkowy klimat, który powoduje, że czujemy się w danym miejscu naprawdę dobrze. Mimo iż jest to jedno z największych miast w Ameryce Południowej, zwiedziliśmy je dość dokładnie (aż zdarłam sobie podeszwy w butach). Jest bardzo kosmopolityczne, dlatego sądzę, że każdy znajdzie w nim coś dla siebie. Od pięknych zabytków w centrum, luksusowych jachtów i okazałych apartamentów w dzielnicach VIP, przez koloryt ulic zamieszkałych i tłumnie odwiedzanych przez bohemę, po strefy biedy i rozpadających się chatynek. Nas zachwyciło przede wszystkim San Telmo i La Boca, ale i pozostałe z 48 dzielnic miało coś w sobie.
Każdy wytrawny turysta, będąc w Ciudad de la Santissima Trinidad y Puerto de Buenos Aires (co w dosłownym tłumaczeniu nazwy argentyńskiej stolicy oznacza Miasto Przenajświętszej Trójcy i Port Pomyślnych Wiatrów), rozpoczyna zwiedzanie od Plaza de Mayo, z jego charakterystycznym “Różowym Domem” po środku. W Casa Rosado rezyduje obecnie prezydent kraju, aczkolwiek budowla ta znana jest już z wcześniejszych okresów, kiedy to z jej balkonów przemawiały takie znamienitości jak Evita Peron czy Jan Paweł II. Oprócz Pałacu Prezydenckiego, udostępnionego dla zwiedzających po upadku dyktatury w 1983 r., na pierwszy plan Placu wybija się również Pirámida de Mayo, czyli obelisk upamiętniający pierwszą rocznicę uzyskania niepodległości przez Buenos.
Mimo iż władze miasta robią wszystko, aby ten obszar wyglądał perfekcyjnie, by wszystko było wymuskane, trawniki równo przystrzyżone, śmieci pozamiatane, to jednak nie wpłyną na rysę wyraźnie odznaczającą się na tym idealnym wizerunku. Otóż niejednokrotnie można natknąć się tam na namioty, transparenty, plakaty i inne środki przekazu poglądów i haseł ludzi protestujących czy też demonstrujących w imię poparcia ważnych idei. Plac ten skupia np. w każde czwartkowe popołudnie ruch matek, których dzieci padły ofiarą przejęcia w drugiej połowie lat ’70 XX wieku władzy przez juntę wojskową. Kto się sprzeciwiał wówczas rządzącym, poddawany był torturom, prześladowany czy aresztowany. Summa summarum ponad 30000 obywateli uznano za zaginionych bez śladu. Od 30 lat kobiety, odziane w białe chusty, spotykają się w tym samym miejscu, tworząc tzw. Asociación Madres de Plaza de Mayo.
Reszta centrum jest ładna, ale nie jakoś turbo ciekawa. Wygląda bardzo europejsko, przywodzi nam na myśl ulice Madrytu, może trochę Wiedeń. Nieco bardziej interesująco jest w Puerto Madero. I nie dlatego, że luksusowo. Po prostu można pospacerować sobie deptakiem nad samą wodą, wbić na jakiś statek celem zwiedzenia go, zjedzenia obiadu czy pooglądania armat, skorzystać z outdoorowej siłowni czy też spróbować domyślić się czemu słynny Most Kobiet jest taki wyjątkowy. Owszem, Puente de la Mujer odznacza się specyficzną konstrukcją, jednak nie na tyle, by na jego odwiedzenie poświęcić czas, który można by było spożytkować na inną część miasta, położona w gruncie rzeczy rzut beretem od mostu. Mam na myśli bajeczne San Telmo.
To miejsce dla artystycznych dusz. Znajdziecie tam wszystko. Kawiarnie, sklepiki, galerie, muzea, małe teatry amatorskie, szkoły tańca, kluby muzyczne. Są tancerze, piosenkarze, lalkarze, zespoły rozdające autografy na sprzedawanych z koca płytach, niezliczona ilość rzemieślników. Najlepiej wbić tam w niedzielę, szczególnie w okolice Plaza Dorrego, wokół którego odbywa się coś na zasadzie naszego Jarmarku Dominikańskiego, tylko razy milion. Po 15 minutach można co prawda dostać oczopląsu i zawrotów głowy, ale po 20 przyzwyczajacie się do tej ferii braw i kakofonii dźwięków, tworząc z nią idealnie spójną harmonię.
Jeśli natomiast wtopienie się w klimat nie przyjdzie Wam z taką łatwością, będziecie mogli spokojnie ochłonąć w którejś z klimatycznych knajpek, zaszytych gdzieś w obdrapanych podwórkach. Są tak bezpretensjonalne, że gdyby nie napięty grafik dnia zostalibyśmy w jednej z nich do późnych godzin nocnych, tak pięknie pozwala się wychillować.
Najedliśmy się tam, obąblowaliśmy wina, nakupiliśmy pamiątek. Uwaga – ze względu na duże zainteresowanie turystów sercem San Telmo jest tam też mnóstwo pospolitej chińszczyzny, dlatego warto opanować atawistyczne zapędy zakupoholika, uzbroić w cierpliwość,chwilę poszperać i za grosze kupić jakąś rękodzielniczą perełkę. Wysłuchaliśmy kilku koncertów, których następnie nagrania nabyliśmy z ogromną przyjemnością, obejrzeliśmy pokazy tanga oraz samby brazylijskiej (czego nam się nie udało dokonać podczas pobytu w Rio de Janeiro).
Zachwyceni kolorytem doznań San Telmo, postanowiliśmy udać się spacerem do dzielnicy, która kryje w sobie najbardziej barwną enklawę, jaką mieliśmy okazję do tej pory w podróżniczym życiu odwiedzić. La Boca, bo o niej mowa, odwiedzana jest przez setki turystów między innymi dlatego, że na jej terenie znajduje się słynny stadion La Bombonera, w którym trenuje na codzień były klub Diego Maradony, czyli Atletico Boca Juniors Buenos Aires. Ponieważ jednak nas piłka nożna interesuje tylko podczas Euro czy Mundialu, zrobiliśmy z przyzwoitości jedynie zdjęcie temu żółto-niebieskiemu obiektowi sportowemu, więcej czasu na niego nie tracąc. Naszym głównym celem była bowiem uliczka Caminito, która gwarantuje naprawdę wyborne doznania.
Mała uwaga. Podobno nie jest tam bezpiecznie. Podobno turyści powinni mieć się na baczności, a w ogóle to najlepiej jak pojadą na te kolorową ulicę w ramach wycieczki z biurem podróży, które ich tam podrzuci autokarem, wysadzi na godzinę, i odwiezie czym prędzej do wychuchanego centrum. Niestety, ale wiele osób wierzy w te legendy i daje się na nie nabrać jak onegdaj dzieci na Czarną Wołgę. Szczerze- nie demonizowałabym. Oczywiście niekoniecznie musicie wyruszać tam w futrze i z diamentami w uszach a’la amerykański raper oraz wyciągać całą elektronikę, jaką udało Wam się zgromadzić od czasów komunii. Zalecamy jak zwykle zdrowy rozsądek. Nam nie stało się nic, z kucharzem lokalnej speluny mamy do tej pory kontakt na Facebooku, co więcej – jak ruszaliśmy w drogę powrotną wszyscy przybili nam piątki. Więc chill.
No dobra, a skąd te kolory? Otóż La Boca to wzniesiona wzdłuż kanału Riachuelo, w zakolu rzeki określanym jako Vuelta de Rocha, dzielnica włoskich emigrantów. Ze względu na iście portowe położenie dużo się tam działo, statki pełnomorskie, magazyny, te sprawy, napływało zatem doń coraz więcej Europejczyków, w tym głównie Włochów z Genui. I to oni stworzyli niepowtarzalny klimat, który podziwiamy do dzisiaj. Swoje małe domy typu conventillos pokrywali resztkami farb wykorzystywanych do malowania statków, w kolorach, które akurat mieli po ręką. Stąd ten uroczy miszmasz. Owszem, obecnie miejsce jest mocno skomercjalizowane, niemniej jednak autentyzm tamtych czasów pozostaje wyczuwalny.
Cały ruch turystyczny skupia się wokół uliczki Caminito, gdzie jest najbardziej kolorowo, gdzie kawiarni na metr kwadratowy jest więcej niż członków The Kelly Family, gdzie co chwila odbywają się pokazy tanga, a pamiątki można liczyć w milionach. Z tego punktu mnóstwo osób, w eskorcie uzbrojonych w parasolki przewodników, odprowadzanych jest do autobusów i odwożonych pod hotele. My przyszliśmy na własnych stopach, na których postanowiliśmy ruszyć w “przerażający” głąb dzielnicy. Co nas spotkało? Cudowna naturalność. Gospodynie na taboretach przed domami obierające ziemniaki, dzieciaki latające po chodniku z jakimiś wymyślonymi na prędce zabawkami, faceci jarający szlugi, zadziornie patrzący na przechodniów. Gdy jeden z nich zapytał czy nie jesteśmy zainteresowani obiadem w jego bistro i zaprowadził do knajpy stworzonej z kilku niepasujących do siebie stołów poprzedzielanych prześcieradłami, mieliśmy chwile zawahania. Ostatecznie zadecydowały burczące z głodu brzuchy. Gdy poczuliśmy zapach grillowanych dań i zobaczyliśmy karafkę czerwonego wina, doszliśmy do wniosku, że jeśli będzie to nasza ostatnia wieczerza, to przynajmniej na dobrym, kulinarnym poziomie. Było cudnie, wszystko bez ładu i składu, jak w obozie dla uchodźców, dzięki czemu mega klimatycznie. I muzyka na żywo w wykonaniu lokalnego grajka, który śpiewał tak pięknie, że aż łzy stanęły mi w oczach. Naprawdę – jeśli będziecie mieli możliwość, skorzystajcie z takiej opcji stołowania się. Nie ma lepszego sposobu na poznawanie kraju „od kuchni”.
Jeśli natomiast poszukujecie mniej “ekstremalnych” doznań, polecamy Recoletę, w której znajduje się godny uwagi…cmentarz. Nie ma na nim identycznych płyt z lastryka czy czarnego granitu, są natomiast grobowce, takie jak kiedyś sobie u nas zamawiały sobie całe rodziny. Wysokie, z ceramicznymi portretami zmarłych, niektóre pięknie wyrzeźbione, inne zdecydowanie nadgryzione zębem czasu. Wśród wyczytanych na nagrobkach nazwisk znajduje się głównie miejscowa elita, aczkolwiek i tak największe zainteresowanie wzbudza jeden grób – Evity, drugiej żony Juana Perona.
Tym zaś, którzy chcą sobie po prostu pospacerować wśród bujnej zieleni i nie myśleć o niczym innym, tylko o niebieskich migdałach, najlepiej udać się do Palermo (które jako takie również dzieli się na swoje małe “poddzielnice”). Drzewa, krzewy, kwiaty, ławki, jeziorka, przestrzeń rekreacyjna do wypoczynku dla rodzin i korposzczurków, chcących odetchnąć po pracy. To ZOO, ogrody botaniczne, różane, ścieżki dla rolkarzy, tor wyścigów konnych czy tereny do gry w polo. Czyli idealny odpoczynek na świeżym powietrzu po intensywnym zwiedzaniu tej bajecznej metropolii.
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