O mały włos, a byśmy tam nie dotarli. I mimo, iż od naszej południowoamerykańskiej przygody minęło ponad 1,5 roku, na samą myśl o tym, że moglibyśmy nie przeżyć jednej z największych atrakcji w naszym dotychczasowym dorobku podróżniczym, łzy zbierają mi się w oczach. Wszystko mieliśmy perfekcyjnie zaplanowane. Lotnisko Santos Dumont,położone rzut beretem od hotelu, taksówka zamówiona z odpowiednim wyprzedzeniem i zapasem czasowym, instrukcja obsługi samodzielnej odprawy i…absolutnie niemożliwy do sklejenia przez obsługę tego krajowego aeroporto fakt, iż nasza podróż w stronę Foz do Iguaçu będzie obejmować dwie przesiadki : w São Paulo i Kurytybie. Z uporem maniaka próbowali nadać nam bagaże nie tam, gdzie trzeba, i na pokład samolotu wskoczyliśmy dosłownie rzutem na taśmę.
Miasto Foz do Iguaçu jako takie jest dość osobliwe. Oprócz sklepów oferujących pralki w rewelacyjnych cenach w zasadzie nie natrafiliśmy na nic godnego uwagi. Zero fajnych knajp, zero klimatycznych miejsc, jakiś taki przedziwny twór, który po 18 wymiera całkowicie (przynajmniej tak było w lutym 2015 r.). Czekaliśmy aż wieczorem zombiaki zaczną wychodzić na ulice. Ale to nieważne. To nie o urodę miasteczka chodziło. Kluczowym punktem tej części naszej podróży był bowiem Park Narodowy, mieszczący absolutnie zjawiskowy wodospad Iguaçu/ Iguazu, który ze względu na kompleksową powierzchnię położenia jest bardziej imponujący niż Niagara (nie wiem, nie byłam, nie znam się, to się wypowiem). A do tego powstał jakieś 150 milionów lat temu, więc przy okazji można poobcować z historią naturalną przez duże H. Ciekawe jest to że do tego magicznego miejsca można dojechać z Foz autobusem miejskim, o czym kilka słów napisał Sebek w recenzji hotelu, w którym mieliśmy okazję nocować. Zapraszamy na nasz profil TripAdvisor 😉
Dlaczego dwie nazwy? Otóż całość kompleksu leży na granicy Brazylii i Argentyny (oraz Paragwaju, ale on już nie ma swojego oddzielnego dostępu) i podobno toczą się bezkrwawe boje dotyczące tego, która część jest ładniejsza. Droższa jest ponoć argentyńska (może dlatego, że zajmuje 80% całości?), ale i brazylijska do najtańszych nie należy. Warto jednak zapłacić, to są emocje i doznania jedne na milion. Oczywiście mówimy tu o bilecie podstawowym, do którego można sobie dokupić dodatkowe atrakcje, typu park ptaków, tratwa, szlak ekologiczny, helikopter. My zdecydowaliśmy się na jedną, ale o tym za chwilę.
Mimo iż miejsce jest mocno turystyczne, to o dziwo wcale nam to specjalnie nie przeszkadzało. Być może byliśmy poza wysokim sezonem (aczkolwiek podobno najpiękniej jest tu w porze deszczowej, od listopada do marca, czyli wtedy, kiedy myśmy przybyli). Albo to po prostu dobrze zorganizowana infrastruktura: mało chaosu, za to czytelne reguły i sprawna obsługa, które zapewniają brak męczącego ponad miarę tłumu.
Gdy już kupiliśmy bilet wstępu oraz bon na dodatkową przyjemność, wsiedliśmy do piętrowego autobusu, który podwiózł nas na początek trasy wodospadowej (jest sporo przystanków, darmowa mapka rezerwatu wskazuje gdzie należy wysiąść, aby rozpocząć kolejną przygodę). Po drodze zostaliśmy uraczeni workiem niezbędnych informacji, w tym m.in. na temat zakazu głaskania koati (przed czym ostrzegają również porozklejane wszędzie plakaty z sugestywnie zakrwawionymi dłońmi i przekreślonym wizerunkiem tych uroczych, szopowatych sierściuchów).
Oczywiście wszyscy turyści, gdy zobaczyli pierwsze stado ostronosów rudych, zaczęli wyciągać łapy celem ich przytulenia lub chociaż posmerania po pysku. Pod groźbą rozwodu, pamiętna tajskiej historii z małpą, zabroniłam Sebastianowi nawet myśleć o bliższych kontaktach z wszelkim rodzajem drapieżnej fauny. Ostatkiem sił się powstrzymywał, aczkolwiek widziałam, że musiał w tym celu mocno ze sobą walczyć. Wyzwanie było o tyle trudne, że koati to wilki w owczych skórach. Wyglądają bardzo niewinnie, ponadto stosują przebiegłe metody w stylu maślany wzrok kota ze Shreka celem wyłudzenia…w zasadzie wszystkiego co macie. Od kanapek, po batony, przez napoje gazowane czy orzeszki. Absolutnie nic sobie nie robią z prób przepędzenia przez obsługę, nawet z groźnymi miotłami walczą zawzięcie i z taką samą determinacją podchodzą do prób zarekwirowania nęcąco pachnących produktów żywieniowych.
Oprócz koati Park zamieszkują inni przedstawiciele egzotycznej fauny, aczkolwiek dopiero duża doza cierpliwości, ewentualnie dodatkowo wykupiona wycieczka z przewodnikiem, gwarantują bliższe spotkania pierwszego stopnia. A jest z kim. Największą reprezentacje stanowią ptaki, w tym głównie papugi i tukany. Puchaci przedstawiciele ssaków to z kolei małpy, tapiry, sympatyczne mrówkojady oraz drapieżne jaguary i oceloty. Cały ten zwierzyniec ukrywa się wśród iście tropikalnej roślinności, czyli palm, bambusów, różnorakich paproci, storczyków, czy innych begonii.
Spacer zaczyna się od pomniejszych punktów widokowych, które same w sobie robią niezłe wrażenie. W sumie naliczono 275 odrębnych progów skalnych, czyli takich mini wodospadów, więc naprawdę jest co oglądać. Zawdzięczamy je rzece Iguaçu (co w wolnym tłumaczeniu z języka Tupi-Guarani oznacza nic innego, tylko wielką wodę), która swoje źródła ma nieopodal Kurytyby, w łańcuchu górskim Serra do Mar. Płynie tak sobie wesoło Wyżyną Brazylijską przez prawie 1400 km, po drodze opadając po ponad 60 progach skalnych. A gdy dociera na skraj płaskowyżu, bezpośrednio przed ujściem do rzeki Parany, robi się zeń Wodospad Iguazu.
Apetyt rośnie w miarę jedzenia, a z kolejnymi postojami “ochy i achy” są coraz większe. Gdy zaś turysta dociera do Diabelskiej Gardzieli, czyli Devil’s Throat lub jak kto woli Garganta del Diablo, ekscytacja sięga zenitu. Zwłaszcza, że dzięki specjalnym kładkom i metalowym konstrukcjom można podejść maksymalnie blisko tego najwyższego spadku wód. Ulokowana centralnie na przebiegu granicy argentyńsko-brazylijskiej Gardziel jest największą kaskadą wodospadu, a że spada z 82 metrów, to swoją wysokością przewyższa nawet Niagarę.
To jest po prostu coś niebywałego. A te doznania empiryczne. Za jednym zamachem napawają się wszystkie zmysły. Wzrok z oczywistych względów. Słuch, gdy tabuny spadającej wody uderzają o taflę głównych zbiorników, albo roztrzaskują o skały. Żeby się porozumieć momentami trzeba wręcz krzyczeć, ponieważ huk zagłusza wypowiadane słowa. Oficjalne dane średniego przepływu wody mówią o 1756 m³/s, co może nie jest dla wszystkich czytelne. Natomiast wystarczająco obrazowy jest fakt, że szum wody słychać w promieniu 20 km. Dziękuję, pozdrawiam. Węch i smak oraz dotyk również zaspokoicie, gdy wodospadowy deszcz nie tyle co zrosi Waszą skórę, ile zmoczy do suchej nitki. Niektórzy, mniej odważni, zaopatrywali się w specjalne kurtki lub kupione na miejscu jednorazowe peleryny. Dla nas jednak doznania rodem z konkursu miss mokrego podkoszulka były nie do podrobienia, więc ochoczo wystawialiśmy ciała na działanie natury.
Po nakarmieniu zmysłów, postanowiliśmy się posilić w klimatycznej knajpce, położonej nad samą wodą. Totalny sztos. Bardzo dobre jedzenie, podane w formie szwedzkiego stołu, pyszne drinki, ceny relatywnie wysokie, ale nie zabójczo. Zresztą przy tych doznaniach i takiej wycieczce było warto. Po prostu idealnie uzupełniliśmy całość pozytywnych wrażeń. Wody szum, ptaków śpiew, łódki w tle i te wszędobylskie motyle. Absolutnie piękne. Zrelaksowaliśmy się totalnie i gdyby nie kolejna atrakcja, pewno poszlibyśmy spać na jednym z restauracyjnych hamaków. Jednak zapowiadało się tak epicko, że w życiu byśmy nie zrezygnowali.
Otóż zostaliśmy namówieni (fenks gad) na opcję pt. wpłynięcie pod wodospady i zwiedzanie dżungli. Ta druga część była, nie bójmy się tego powiedzieć, mocno średnia. Najpierw jechaliśmy większymi meleksami i słuchaliśmy bilingwalnej opowieści na temat środowiska naturalnego Parku, a następnie wędrowaliśmy kładkami i oglądaliśmy to wszystko z pozycji piechura. Było miło, ale nam się spieszyło na wodę. A tam- sztos. Absolutny. Polecamy mieć przy sobie japonki oraz kostium kąpielowy. W zasadzie nic więcej. Aha, my mamy wodoodporne telefony i one zrobiły gigantyczną robotę, uwieczniając te nieziemską przygodę w lepszej jakości niż wodoodporne goPro Pana Przewodnika.
Jak to wygląda? Początkowo płynie się motorówkowym pontonem i podziwia widoki, czasem tylko łapiąc sąsiada za rękę, gdy kapitan zrobi “przechyły”. To preludium do części właściwej. Im bliżej kaskady, tym fale większe, a Wami rzuca jak pies flakiem. W momencie wpłynięcia pod sam wodospad mózg eksploduje. Tego się nie da opisać, zdjęcia również nie oddadzą emocji (aczkolwiek Pani Mama twierdzi, że na jednym z poniższych obrazków prezentuje sobą pełnię niczym nieograniczonego szczęścia). Także śledźcie tego naszego YouTuba, żeby się przekonać, iż naprawdę warto. Mistrzostwo totalne – zobaczcie sami 🙂
Wizyta w Parku zajęła nam 3/4 dnia. Proporcja akuratna, zarówno pod kątem obciążenia fizycznego jak i finansowego. Ale oczywiście dla chętnych istnieje wiele możliwości wydłużenia tej niewątpliwej przyjemności. Jeśli więc będąc w Brazylii lub Argentynie zastanawiacie się czy warto odwiedzić to miejsce, nasza odpowiedź brzmi: TAK, TAK, TAAAAAAAK!!!
Na krótką relację ze spaceru po parku zapraszamy poniżej 🙂
Czy warto składać wizytę argentyńskim gauchom? | Dosvagabundos.pl
[…] powiedzielibyśmy, że uplasował się w naszym TOP 5 podróżniczych wrażeń (jak np. wypad pod Wodospad Iguazu), ale na pewno żałowalibyśmy odpuszczenia sobie takiej okazji. Sądzę, że jeśli nie macie do […]
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