Nieprzypadkowo w tytule użyłam zapisu rodem z folderu biura podróży – tę wycieczkę sprzedała nam rezydentka Itaki i uczciwie muszę przyznać, że nie wsadziła nas na minę. Co prawda pani przewodnik serwowała w czasie podróży autokarem straszne kocopały i wybitnie przaśne żarty oraz miała spory problem z zachowaniem sensownych proporcji (czas wolny przekraczał ten zarezerwowany na zwiedzanie), niemniej jednak w ostatecznym rozrachunku dokonałyśmy dobrego wyboru.
Pierwszy przystanek pominę milczeniem, wskazując jedynie, że był to punkt widokowy na tyłach stacji benzynowej. Zapamiętałam z niego jedynie ogromną kolejkę do toalety.
Następnie dojechałyśmy do Cypryjskiej stolicy, czyli Nikozji. Co ciekawe, jest ona także stolicą Cypru Północnego. Co jeszcze ciekawsze Cypr Północny jest nieuznawany na arenie międzynarodowej przez żadne państwo poza Turcją, Nachiczewańską Republiką Autonomiczną i Organizacją Współpracy Islamskiej, czyli crème de la crème. Jak każdy szanujący się kraj ma jednakże własny rząd, konstytucje, hymn i straż graniczną, dlatego jeśli chcecie wejść do tego państwa w mieście musicie mieć ważny PASZPORT! (to wersja oficjalna, ponieważ my posłużyłyśmy się dowodami osobistymi. Na wszelki wypadek miejcie przy sobie obydwa dokumenty).
Nie bardzo wiedziałam czego się mogę spodziewać w tym dziwnym tworze administracyjno-prawnym, ale jak się później okazało nie zamieszkują go elfy ani brodate krasnoludy, tylko zwykli Turcy. Szkoda, bo nie widziałam nigdy elfa na żywo. No ale co zrobić – nie można mieć wszystkiego. Grunt, że mają super wyposażone sklepy z przeróżnymi łakociami, ceramiką, całkiem stylowymi gadżetami do domu oraz niepodważalnie oryginalnymi ubraniami, okularami, paskami i całym dobrem wprost spod ręki topowych projektantów.
Europejska część Nikozji estetom nie przypadłaby do gustu. A przynajmniej te rejony, które odwiedziła nasza wycieczka, czyli wczesnochrześcijański sobór św. Jana z grobem św. Barnaby i jego okolice. Kościół jak to kościół, dość ładny, jednakże jako że nie jestem zbytnią fanką turystyki sakralnej mogłam nie zauważyć jakiś nadzwyczajnych walorów tego miejsca. Jedyne, co mnie naprawdę zaciekawiło, to wsypywane przez zakonników do papierowych torebek mokre bakalie, które później przekazywali wiernym. Do tej pory nie wiem o co chodziło, albowiem pani przewodnik uparcie udawała, że nie słyszy moich pytań w tym temacie. Ściana w ścianę z katedrą ulokowany jest natomiast pałac Arcybiskupa Makariosa, z jego śnieżnobiałą statuą u bram. Zamknięty dla zwiedzających kusi jednak ciekawość wystawionymi na dziecińcu, w wielkiej szklanej gablocie, limuzynami patriarchy, który w latach ’70 XX wieku wygrał pierwsze wybory prezydenckie w niepodległym Cyprze. Samochody mają fantastyczne tablice rejestracyjne – AK. Od razu skojarzyło mi się z widzianą niedawno w Warszawie rejestracją WT Kicia.
Oprócz tego mijałyśmy wysokie bloki jak za Gierka, znaną z polskiego krajobrazu bolączkę w postaci reklam i banerów, mało wychodzącej ze starych obiektów magii, za to sporo ociosanej cywilizacji. Tylko ludzie, jak zwykle, dodawali kolorytu miastoznawczemu spacerowi. Nie wykluczam rzecz jasna, że dłuższe i głębsze eksplorowanie cypryjskiej stolicy pozwala dojść do innych konkluzji – my niestety nie byłyśmy specjalnie zachwycone. Zupełnie odwrotnie niż w przypadku kolejnego przystanku, czyli Bellapais.
Romantyczną duszą raczej nie jestem, ale te trzynastowieczne ruiny augustiańskiego opactwa zrobiły na mnie spore wrażenie. Opustoszały monastyr ulokowany jest w niewielkiej, acz uroczej wiosce, na krawędzi wysokiego wzniesienia, dzięki czemu widać go już z daleka. Obydwa tłumaczenia jego nazwy, czyli “Piękna Wioska” lub “Klasztor Pokoju”, pasują jak ulał. To naprawdę imponujące miejsce. Podobno co roku w maju odbywa się tam festiwal muzyki poważanej. Brzmi ciekawie. Ja natomiast oczami duszy widzę na terenie opactwa jakąś fantastyczną sesję zdjęciową do Vouge’a albo naszego rodzimego Zwierciadła, byłaby epicka.
Ostatnim punktem na mapie wycieczki jest Kyrenia, czyli wyjątkowo ładny port, z pocztówkową starówką i zamkiem, który aż zachęca, aby się na niego wdrapać. Zatoka dla łódek w tym cypryjskim St. Tropez, jak zwykli o swojej miejscowości mówić tambylcy, ulokowana jest naprawdę wybornie – między murami obronnymi i fortem, z górami Beşparmak w tle. Warto przyjechać tam po południu – powoli zachodzące słońce potrafi zaprzeć dech w piersiach. Zwłaszcza, gdy ogląda się je ze szczytu warowni, którą w XII wieku zdobył Ryszard Lwie Serce. Polecamy zatem wygodne obuwie i naładowane na full aparaty – grzechem byłoby nie uwiecznić tych widoków na cyfrowej kliszy.
Wycieczka ta, mimo swojej wygórowanej ceny, w ostatecznym rozrachunku była warta zainwestowanych w nią pieniędzy. Wrażenia wypełniają pustkę w portfelu, także śmiało się można na ten zestaw decydować. Proponuję jednak mieć ze sobą podręczny przewodnik albo chociaż wydruki z informacjami na temat odwiedzanych miejsc na wypadek, gdybyście tak jak my natrafili na niespełnionego stand upowca z zacięciem do żartów, z których śmiałby się tylko prowadzący Familiadę.
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