Owszem, można było wybrać miejsce szczycące się piękniejszymi plażami i lazurową wodą. Nam jednak zależało, żeby na część urlopu pt. “byczenie się” dojechać względnie szybko, tanio oraz jednym środkiem lokomocji. A także nie zanudzić się na śmierć ( już po jednym dniu plażingu mamy dosyć i nie bardzo wiemy co ze sobą robić, gdy okolica zapewnia jedynie pocztówkowe widoki). Reaserch oraz podpowiedzi znajomych skłoniły nas do wyboru tego urokliwego miasteczka kolonialnego, wpisanego oczywiście na listę dziedzictwa UNESCO.
Do Parat dojechaliśmy z Rio autobusem. Wsiedliśmy na położonym nieopodal mostu Rio-Niterói Terminalu Rodoviário Novo Rio, na którym panuje niezły kociokwik. Do wyboru będziecie mieli około 10 opcji godzinowych, a do punktu docelowego dotrzecie wygodnymi, klimatyzowanymi autokarami z TOALETĄ! Gdzieś wyczytałam, że trasa trwa 3 godziny. To kłamstwo. My niestety jechaliśmy prawie 6, ale na 4,5-5 musicie być przygotowani.
Na miejscu daliśmy ciała i zrezygnowaliśmy z taksówki, ponieważ wg naszych wyliczeń zarezerwowana pausada była bardzo blisko dworca. Owszem, w linii prostej, samochodem, po świeżo wylanym asfalcie, to jakieś 5 minut. Natomiast dymanie z walizką uliczkami parackiej starówki zajęło nam pół życia. Spacer farmera wyczerpał nas do reszty, więc jeśli nie podróżujecie z plecakami, to mimo wszystko radzimy zrzucić się na jakiegoś kierowcę (lepiej oszczędzić zdrowie, niż tych kilka reali). Nocowaliśmy przy samej plaży Praia do Pontal, nad zatoką. Niestety piach jest tam dość brudny, woda w sumie też. No i wszędzie kręcą się bezpańskie psy. Niegroźne, ale jest ich tak dużo, że gdy zaczynałam jednego dokarmiać drugi, trzeci i dziesiąty rzucały się na tego szczęśliwca, więc co i raz prowokowałam walki amores perros. Dopiero drugiego dnia zrozumiałam, że bycie brazylijską Violettą Villas do najłatwiejszych czynności nie należy.
Szczęśliwie (tak, dobrze przeczytaliście), pogoda nie była szczególnie plażowa, dlatego nie odczuwaliśmy jakoś nazbyt dobitnie tych pozostawiających nieco do życzenia okoliczności przyrody. Raz tylko, jak nas mocno przyszpiliło z kąpielą, pojechaliśmy do położonego nieopodal, bo zaledwie 45 min drogi autobusem, Trindade, gdzie pokonywaliśmy fale skąpani od stóp do głów w deszczu (gdyby nie fakt, że totalnie zmokły nam bagaże podręczne zostawione pod drzewem, spędzilibyśmy w tym mini miasteczku cały dzień, na tyle fajne warunki oferuje pływającym człowiekom). Niebo czarne, woda groźnie wzburzona, a my i tak tak wspominamy tamte chwile z rozrzewnieniem. I nawet konieczność powrotu w mokrych gaciach i bluzach tego wrażenia nie zepsuła.
Same Paraty, zwane też Parati, są przecudnej urody kolonialną perłą. Nic tylko snuć się i robić zdjęcia (jakby ktoś szukał miejsca na sesję ślubną – absolutnie idealne). W odróżnieniu od Rio nie trzeba się tutaj trząść o swój sprzęt i inne precjoza, zagęszczenie złodziei na metr kwadratowy nie przekracza w żaden sposób światowych norm. Podbite onegdaj przez Portugalczyków, jeszcze w XVIII wieku, były portem, z którego najeźdźcy wywozili na swą ziemię złoto i kamienie szlachetne (nadal można przemierzać zbudowany kiedyś przez niewolników Złoty Szlak , czyli Caminho de Ouro). Musiało się wszystkim nieźle powodzić, ponieważ do dzisiaj zachowały się w Paratach malownicze domeczki (tak, wiem, nienawidzę zdrobnień, ale w niektórych przypadkach są wręcz wskazane) i wyjątkowo ładne kościoły, nie zniechęcające przaśnym przepychem. Praktycznie zero samochodów, różnorakie ptactwo, zdobione łódki, biała elewacja i kolorowe okolice. Relax 100%.
Co można robić? Spacerować (czasami po kolana w wodzie, także żadnych tam zamszowych szpilek i innych cudactw brać nie należy), również po zmroku (co nie we wszystkich brazylijskich lokalizacjach jest wskazane). Wyczytałam, że miasteczko zaprojektowano z pełną premedytacją w taki sposób, aby pojawiający się dwukrotnie w ciągu dnia przypływ witał na ulicach, czyszcząc je tym samym i odświeżając. Tak jest w zasadzie do tej pory, jednakże ze względu na temperaturę powietrza czasami jedynie ulokowane gdzieniegdzie kałuże wskazują na niedawne rozlewisko w konkretnym miejscu. Efekt opadów znika równie szybko, co ich niespodziewane nadejście. Więc no stress.
Kupować, zarówno w mini-galeriach, jak i u siedzących na kocich łbach potomków Indian, handlujących własnymi wyrobami biżuteryjno-plecionkowymi. Czytać pod palmą, w jednym ręku trzymając książkę, a w drugim soczyste mango. Siedzieć w pełnym uhahanych surferów barze na plaży, zasysając caipirinhe. Przepłynąć statkiem po zatoce i sobie posnorklować w trakcie tego całodziennego rejsu. Pojechać nad wodospady (my byliśmy akurat po Iguazu, także odpuściliśmy te atrakcję, ale z tego co wyczytaliśmy np. w okolice Tobogã można dojechać na luzaku autobusem). Pobyć przyrodnikiem np.w znajdującym się nieopodal miasteczka parku narodowym Serra da Bocaina.
Zwiedzać Centrum Historyczne lub którąś alambiques, czyli wytwórnię cachaçy. Jeść, i to dobrze, zwłaszcza lody z włoskiej knajpy Miracolo (to ta na zdjęciu poniżej). Po prostu obłędne. A i pizza zacna. Wypożyczyć jedną z kolorowych łódek. Przejechać bryczką. Uprawiać sporty, tak wodne jak i lądowe. Może nie jest to upstrzone światowej sławy atrakcjami miejsce, ale nawet tego nie oczekiwaliśmy. Przybyliśmy po pełen chill i to nam Paraty zagwarantowały.
Miasteczko jest jednym z najstarszych w Ameryce Południowej, jednak duch historii nie powoduje, że czujemy się w nim sztywno jak w dostojnym Wiedniu czy abstrakcyjnie, jak pod egipskimi piramidami. Ma w sobie to coś, że spięte przez 11 miesięcy w roku mięśnie, nagle się rozluźniają, a umysł zamienia w puchatą, różową chmurkę na błękitnym niebie (matko, jak cukierkowo, niczym u troskliwych misiów). Kiedyś Paraty były kluczowym przystankiem na szlaku komunikacyjno-handlowym na trasie Sao Paulo – Rio de Janeiro. Później jednak cały kraj przeżywał rozkwit, powstawało coraz więcej przeróżnych połączeń, więc Parati zepchnięto na boczne tory (dosłownie i w przenośni). I szczęśliwie dzięki temu zachowały się one w tak świetnym stanie. Zwłaszcza starówka, stanowiąca podobno największy osiemnastowieczny, brazylijski kompleks urbanistyczny. Na pierwszy rzut oka wszystkie uliczki wyglądają tak samo. Jednak gdy przyjrzycie się nieco uważniej zobaczycie, że absolutnie każda wnęka, witryna, zaułek, kryją w sobie coś ciekawego.
Nie zgadzam się ze stwierdzeniem, że w tym miasteczku można umrzeć z nudów. Wszystko zależy od nastawienia. Urok tego miejsca daje pełne pole do popisu dla wyobraźni, z czego skrzętnie skorzystaliśmy. My byliśmy bardzo zadowoleni. Jak będziecie, pozdrówcie od nas Paraty, polubiliśmy je bardzo.
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