Gdy podróżujecie po Szkocji i wydaje Wam się, że nic już bardziej nie może Was zauroczyć, będziecie w błędzie. Każdy kolejny kilometr zwiedzania to dodatkowe “ochy i achy” w repertuarze codziennych wypowiedzi. Apogeum zachwytu podczas naszej podróży przypadło na Isle of Skye, czyli drugą co do wielkości szkocką wyspę.
Razem z wypożyczonym samochodem dotarliśmy na nią promem, który o poranku wyruszył z Mallaig. Droga nie jest długa i uciążliwa (informacja dla czytelników z chorobą morską), ale w miesiącach innych niż wakacyjne może Was niebywale przegwizdać, więc warto mieć na sobie czapki lub odzienie z kapturem.
Gdy odpaliliśmy silnik na stałym lądzie wiedzieliśmy, że jesteśmy w raju. W raju, w którym spędzić mogliśmy tylko kilka godzin. Rozterki bohaterów dramatów antycznych to nic w porównaniu z mętlikiem, jaki mieliśmy wówczas w głowach. Dać się całkowicie pochłonąć pięknu krajobrazu czy wyrobić z ekstremalnie napiętym planem dnia (musieliśmy dotrzeć do Inverness i znaleźć po drodze Nessi)? Ostatecznie zwyciężyło zamiłowanie do natury, dlatego koniec końców przyjechaliśmy akurat na zamknięcie obiektów poświęconych potworowi z Loch Ness, za co chcę oficjalnie przeprosić Państwa Rodziców, którzy się na nie na maksa nastawili (na swoje usprawiedliwienie dodam, że te wszystkie “muzea” są podobno tandetnymi wyciągaczami kasy. Także może to i dobrze, żeśmy pocwałowali klamkę?). Nie było mocnych. Przez pierwsze 45 minut na Wyspie stawaliśmy na zdjęcia dosłownie co kilkaset metrów. To tylko garstka przykładowych ujęć.
Szczery apel – jeśli macie sporo czasu, to przeznaczcie jego maksimum na eksplorowanie Isle of Skye wzdłuż i wszerz. Tylko raczej tych dziewiczych terenów, niekoniecznie miasteczek. My skusiliśmy się na Portree, które nie zachwyciło tak, jak wynikałoby z przeczytanych rekomendacji. Owszem, jest to ciekawe miejsce, ale patrząc kompleksowo na to, co Szkocja może zaoferować, niekoniecznie decydowałabym się na zwiedzanie właśnie tego punktu w tak bardzo napiętym grafiku, na jaki myśmy się zdecydowali. Co do zasady jest to dość przyjemne, zachęcające małymi knajpkami, wystawami lokalnej twórczości, kiermaszami bibelotów w starych budynkach. Ponadto, ze względu na fakt, iż jest to istotny na lokalną skalę ośrodek rybołówstwa, będziecie w nim mogli skosztować świeżych i właściwie przyrządzonych darów morza. Nas ta przyjemność ominęła – gdy dotarliśmy do poleconej restauracji okazało się, że mule, na które ostrzyliśmy sobie zęby, właśnie się skończyły. Zniechęceni daliśmy więc sobie spokój i postanowiliśmy posilić się kanapkami, zostawiając miejsce w żołądkach na pożywną kolację. Summa summarum nie zaliczamy tego postoju do udanych, aczkolwiek pytanie czego kto oczekuje. Przekładając to na polskie realia – my po prostu wolimy popływać na Mazurach, niż włóczyć się po uliczkach Kazimierza Dolnego.
Nieco rozgoryczeni opuściliśmy Portree z silnym zamiarem bezpośredniej jazdy w stronę domniemanego lokum Nessi, przekrzykując się w zapewnieniach, że tym razem żadnych przystanków, bo jesteśmy w gigantycznym niedoczasie. Ta, jasne. Zadziałał ten sam mechanizm, co w przypadku picia. Gdy leżysz na kacu i zarzekasz się, że nigdy więcej nie weźmiesz alkoholu do ust. Od tej pory tylko koktajle z jarmużu i joga. No. I wytrzymujesz w tym postanowieniu do pierwszej imprezy. My wytrzymaliśmy ze swoimi założeniami do wjazdu na bezdroża. A później zagubiliśmy się w czasoprzestrzeni. Tylko nasza czwórka i bezkres natury. Jeśli kiedyś przejdę na koczowniczy tryb życia, to stanie się to w na bank Szkocji.
Do Inverness dojechaliśmy przed zmrokiem, po drodze zahaczając o dwie atrakcje – szczegóły w kolejnym poście. Z perspektywy czasu stwierdzam, że nie żałuję pominięcia niektórych “oczywistych arakcji” na rzecz podziwiania piękna natury. To był niewiarygodny wręcz poziom ładowania baterii. Oczyszczający umysł, dystansujący od problemów dnia powszedniego, pozwalający spojrzeć na siebie z dystansu. Nie ma takich leków, zabiegów kosmetycznych, czy odżywek, które dałyby tyle, co niczym nie zakłócony kontakt z absolutnie zjawiskową przyrodą. Naprawdę polecam każdemu. Gwarantuję, że się nie zawiedziecie. Na koniec pozwolę sobie wstawić cytat. Nie, nie Paulo Coelho. Ktoś znacznie fajniejszy, śp. Jan Himilsbach. “Zatrzymaj się, wyłącz myślenie i poczuj, że żyjesz”.
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