1. Najlepsze na świecie owoce
Nigdy wcześniej i nigdy później nie jedliśmy tak obłędnie smakujących owoców (no, może poza naszymi truskawkami i czereśniami w szczycie sezonu). Gdy wgryziecie się w miąższ tych brazylijskich cudów natury, sok pocieknie Wam po brodzie, a do żołądków trafi orzeźwiający, słodki płyn. Absolutnie przepyszne, podawane także w formie koktajli, sałatek, musów. Mniam. Odżywiałam się głównie nimi, i teraz mocno cierpię na syndrom odstawienia. Pozostałe elementy kuchni brazylijskiej jakoś mnie specjalnie nie porwały. Oczywiście ze względu na warunki geograficzne tego gigantycznego kraju w wielu lokalach można liczyć na świeże, bardzo smaczne ryby i owoce morza, niemniej jednak nie natrafiliśmy tam na żadną potrawę, która zwaliłaby nas z nóg. Chcąc zamówić typowe dania regionalne proście o feijoadę, czyli gulasz zrobiony zazwyczaj z czarnej, rzadziej czerwonej lub brązowej fasoli (mięsożercy niech proszą o feiojada completa, do którego wrzucane są tez m.in. kiełbaski i ozory). Do tego na przykład palmito, czyli serca palmy podawane w postaci sałatki lub zupy oraz nieodzowny ryż bądź fryty. Są też oczywiście pewniaki typu pizza oraz empanady, czyli pierożki nadziewane różnorakim farszem, w niektórych miejscach na naprawdę przyzwoitym poziomie. Natraficie też na liczne knajpy serwujące dania z grilla, czyli churrasco, oraz takie, w których jedzenie serwowane jest na zasadzie szwedzkiego stołu i ważone przy kasach. A na popitkę soki, woda ze świeżego kokosa, albo najlepszy drink pod słońcem- caipirinha.
2. No właśnie. Caipirinha
Zrobiona na bazie cachaçy, czyli bimbru z trzciny cukrowej, jest chyba najlepszym fikołkiem (tak Pan Tata nazywa wszystkie drinki przyrządzane na domowych przyjęciach – przyp. aut.) jaki kiedykolwiek piliśmy. Po powrocie z Brazylii, w wielu miejscach na świecie, zamawialiśmy ten boski koktajl, chcąc ponownie odtworzyć jego idealny smak. Niestety, nawet najlepsi barmani co najwyżej nieco zbliżali się do oryginału. Kluczowy składnik, jakim jest”kaszasa”, posiada setki odmian, co na pewno nie pozostaje bez znaczenia dla końcowego efektu. Bazowo caipirinha produkowana jest z fermentowanego soku trzcinowego, z zawartością alkoholu na poziomie 38 lub 68%, z dodatkiem cukru. Pozostałe elementy drinka są praktycznie takie jak do mojito (i chyba dlatego w niektórych miejscach te dwa napoje serwowane są zamiennie, ku naszemu ogromnemu oburzeniu). Limonka, kruszony lód, trzcinowy cukier i voilà, ambrozja gotowa. Wersja bardziej słowiańska to caipiroska, z wódką w miejsce cachaçy.
3. Niezupełny komfort w zakresie bezpieczeństwa
Gdy pod wpływem szaleńczego impulsu kupiliśmy bilety do Rio z opcją “wylot za 8 dni” w ekspresowym tempie musieliśmy porezerwować noclegi, przejazdy, a także przygotować sobie podstawowe vademecum turysty. Dzwoniłam więc do znajomych z prośbą o wszelkie niezbędne wskazówki. Pierwsza, którą usłyszałam, brzmiała mniej więcej tak: “jak ktoś Ci przyłoży spluwę do czoła, to bez słowa oddaj pieniądze”. Przyzwyczajona do rad w stylu “weź krem z dużym filtrem” uznałam, że to jakaś przedziwna sugestia, więc w pierwszym odruchu ją zignorowałam. Jednak w momencie, gdy druga i trzecia brzmiały mniej więcej podobnie, stwierdziłam, że coś musi być na rzeczy. Ostatecznie nic tak dramatycznego nas nie spotkało, ale rzeczywiście należy zachować ostrożność, zwłaszcza w dużych miastach (aczkolwiek bez popadania w paranoiczną manię prześladowczą).
Jakie są zatem nasze dobre rady? Nie obnosimy się ze bogactwem typu: złote kajdany, sprzęt wystawiony na japońskiego turystę, piękne torebki, diamentowe sikory. Nie zapuszczamy w podejrzane miejsca, nie zwiedzamy po 22:00 faweli, nie błąkamy wieczorami beztrosko po ulicach. Jeśli już koniecznie chcecie wyjść “po nocy” na miasto, to w miejsca powszechnie uczęszczane, oświetlone, patrolowane przez policję, albo rekomendowane przez zaufanego ziomka, z którym bez zastanowienia poszlibyście np. na domówkę. Trzymamy relatywnie niedużą ilość gotówki przy sobie, dokumenty i karty zostawiając w sejfie hotelowym czy w pokoju. My dodatkowo zrobiliśmy ksero paszportu, just in case. Kasę najlepiej wypłacać w popularnych, widocznych miejscach. Nam niestety zeskanowali kartę, gdy nocowaliśmy na podejrzanych obrzeżach, w niebezpiecznej okolicy. Nauczka na przyszłość – załatwiać takie kwestie wcześniej, żeby później nie błąkać się w poszukiwaniu bankomatu po podwórkach, które mrożą krew w żyłach. I jeszcze ciekawostka – niektóre wagony metra, w określone dni i godziny (co widać na załączonym obrazku), przeznaczone są wyłącznie dla kobiet. Oczywiście przeczytaliśmy ten komunikat bez zrozumienia i trochę nas zmroziło w momencie, gdy rosły policjant, jak gdyby nigdy nic, wyrzucił Sebastiana za chabety na peron, udzielając dodatkowo reprymendy karcącym spojrzeniem, gdy małżonek razem ze mną podróżował we wskazanych godzinach oznaczonym wagonem. Sugerujemy więc, aby zwracać uwagę na wszelkie znaki i komunikaty, zwłaszcza gdy są przystępnie podane w języku angielskim.
4. Plaże
Mieliśmy spory dylemat. Mało czasu, kraj ogromny, trzeba pozwiedzać, ale i wypocząć. Co wybrać, żeby wilk był syty i owca cała? Ostatecznie zdecydowaliśmy się na urokliwe, kolonialne miasteczko Paraty w dystrykcie Rio, do którego relatywnie szybko i bezproblemowo dojechaliśmy (co tam, bagatela 6h), zagwarantowało nam ono przyjemny chill, ale niestety nie oczarowało piękną plażą. Żeby zasmakować nieco lepszych widoków trzeba było udać się np. do pobliskiego Trindade. Uznaliśmy po prostu, że najważniejszy jest dla nas spokój i możliwość swobodnego snucia się wieczorami po mieście, a zjawiskowe zatoki zostawimy sobie na odwiedziny Malediwów. Zresztą gdyby nie kwestia bezpieczeństwa, zostalibyśmy przez cały pobyt w Rio, bo Copacabana czy Ipanema są naprawdę fajne. Może nie pocztówkowo rajskie, ale na pewno długie, z drobnym piaskiem, i widokiem na ekstremalne fale z umięśnionymi surferami. Myślałam, że ze względu na fakt ich usytuowania w centrum, nieopodal bloków, będą zasyfione i śmierdzące. Nic z tych rzeczy. To naprawdę klimatyczne miejscówki, jeno więcej na nich kieszonkowców niż gdzie indziej. Celem odszukania bardziej niebiańskich pejzaży należy udać się natomiast poza popularne aglomeracje. Niekiedy dotarcie do punktu docelowego jest żmudne i czasochłonne, niemniej jednak warto poszukać. Zwłaszcza, że Brazylia może się poszczycić prawie 7 500 kilometrami linii brzegowej, więc na wschodzie kraju będziecie wybierać jak w ulęgałkach.
5. Odległości
No niestety ta kwestia mocno ostudziła nasze globtroterskie zapędy, jako że do zagospodarowania mieliśmy jedynie dwa tygodnie. W samym dystrykcie Rio z punktu A do punktu B jechaliśmy autokarem ponad 6 godzin… Według oficjalnych danych Brazylia zajmuje ponad 47,5% powierzchni Ameryki Południowej i liczy ponad 200 milionów mieszkańców. Dziękuję, pozdrawiam. Dlatego planując wszelkiego rodzaju tripy musicie mieć z tylu głowy, że czasami mogą to być na przykład kilkunastogodzinne wyprawy. Bardzo chciałam wybrać się do Amazonii, ale w momencie gdy obliczyliśmy, że podróż tam trwałaby dłużej niż ta z Polski, zrezygnowana odpuściłam (oczywiście istniała opcja ciekawego i względnie szybkiego lotu, ale jego koszt był 4krotnością ceny biletu z Warszawy). Musicie sobie zatem odpowiedzieć na pytanie co Was przede wszystkim pociąga. Klimatyczne kolonialne miasteczka, małe wioski rybackie, bajkowe plaże, a może egzotyczna przyroda z czeluści dżungli? Widziałam, że jedno z popularnych biur podróży ma w swojej ofercie takie kuriozalne kombo, ale idę o zakład, że większość turystów, już trzeciego dnia, ma dosyć zrywania się o świcie, jazdy 8h, żeby tylko zjeść kolację w kolejnym mieście i za chwilę ruszyć dalej. Jeśli Wasze wakacje mają być również przyjemnością – mniej będzie oznaczało więcej. Podobno istnieje coś takiego jak air pass, umożliwiający szybsze i tańsze przemieszczanie się narodowymi liniami już tam na miejscu. Niestety kupowanie go ma sens, gdy robicie to z dużym wyprzedzeniem. Na 3 dni przed, jak to było w naszym wypadku, lepiej przemieszczać się na rolkach. Pamiętajcie o tym wszystkim jeżdżąc wesoło palcem po mapie.
6. Foz do Iguaçu
Absolutnie zjawiskowy Park Narodowy! W niektórych rejonach świata – można się do niego dostać także od strony Argentyńskiej – znany jako Iguazú . Z perspektywy czasu stwierdzamy, że wizyta w nim była jednym z najlepszych doświadczeń życiowych, wartym każdych pieniędzy. Ogromny teren rezerwatu jest mocno turystyczny, ale nie w rażący sposób. Nie napotkacie tam KFC, stołów do cymbergaja i sobowtórów Elvisa. Owszem, można zjeść, ale w klimatycznej knajpie nad brzegiem wody, Na chodnikach spotkacie zaś nie przebierańców, lecz całe stada koati (których nie wolno głaskać, ponieważ potrafią nieźle udziabać. Musiałam powtarzać to co sekundę Sebastianowi – stworzonka te są równie puchate co małpki, a wiadomo jak się dotychczas kończyły bliskie spotkania pierwszego stopnia mojego męża z egzotycznymi ssakami. Jeśli nie wiecie – zapraszam do wpisu nt. Tajlandii). Sugerujemy poświęcić na tę wycieczkę cały dzień, jeśli nie więcej – atrakcji co niemiara. Bogactwo fauny i flory niebywałe, podczas większości spacerów towarzyszą Wam pięknie kolorowe motyle, których jest tam więcej niż loków na głowie Magdy Gessler (ale suchar). Oczywiście clue programu stanowi Wodospad Iguazu, którego poszczególne kaskady tworzą mini wodospadziki. Przez granicę argentyńsko-brazylijską przebiega tzw. Diabelska Gardziel (Garganta del Diablo), czyli największa i niebywale imponująca część całości. Większość turystów ogląda te cuda natury chodząc wokół nich wyznaczonymi kładkami (sugerujemy zaopatrzyć się w peleryny, nawet takie jednorazowe jak na Woodstock, i pokrowce na sprzęt – momentami potrafi chlusnąć tak, że wygrana w konkursie Miss Mokrego Podkoszulka gwarantowana). My skorzystaliśmy oczywiście z wersji hard i za dodatkową, dość sowitą opłatą, wpłynęliśmy pod wodospad na pontonie! Coś nieprawdopodobnego. Chciałoby się stwierdzić, że tego się nie da opisać słowami, ale ze względu na fakt, że planuje na temat rezerwatu osobny post, powstrzymam się od takiego komentarza.
7. Rio
Skłamałabym twierdząc, że Rio jest jakimś 9 cudem świata, Wiedniem Ameryki czy latynoamerykańską perłą. Ma jednak swój klimat. No i niesamowite położenie – między oceanem i zatoką Guanabara, na wzgórzach, udekorowane fajnymi plażami. Żeby zaaplikować je sobie w pigułce potrzebujecie pi razy oko 3 dni. Na pierwszy ogień pójdą na pewno Corcovado ze sławetną figurą Chrystusa Zbawiciela oraz Pão de Açucar, czyli Głowa Cukru. Stworzę osobny post na temat samego miasta, tu zaznaczę więc jedynie, że te dwie atrakcje są niesamowicie oblegane, więc musicie się uzbroić w cierpliwość do niebotycznych kolejek. Drugi dzień to centrum miasta, w którym współczesność przeplata się z kolonialną zabudową, to spacery po dzielnicach takich jak Leblon czy Flamengo, to akwedukt Carioca, czyli Acros da Lapa no i mozaikowe, niesamowicie kolorowe schody Escadaria Selarón, a dla miłośników futbolu to stadion Maracanã. Ostatni dzień obowiązkowo należy przeznaczyć na plażing – Copacabana wcale nie jest przereklamowana, można się na niej po królewsku zrelaksować, pouprawiać trochę sportu, wypić drinka. Idealny odpoczynek.
8. Fawele
Trudno ich nie zauważyć. To okalające centrum domki zbudowane z najtańszych materiałów vide wszystko, co się nada, czyli zwykłe cegły, deski, dykta, tektura, blacha falista… Podobno w takich warunkach żyje mniej więcej 5 milionów Brazylijczyków. Przeczytałam gdzieś, że zdaniem favelados mieszkają oni za plecami sławetnego posągu Chrystusa, i dlatego Bóg ich nie zauważa.W sumie nie tylko On, także dla kartografów są nieistotni – na mapach Rio żadna z 750 faweli nie jest zaznaczona. To dziwne zważywszy na fakt, że stanowią one swoiste miasta w mieście.
Ostatnimi laty ich status zaczął się nieco odmieniać. Może to niezbyt trafiona analogia, ale tendencja skojarzyła mi się z warszawską Pragą. Jakiś czas temu nikt nie chciał jej odwiedzać, a już na pewno nie po zmroku, od kilku dobrych lat przyciąga artystów, hipsterów, młode rodziny. Fawele to zupełnie inna skala, ale i one budzą coraz większe zainteresowanie. Pojawiają się pierwsze banki, wewnątrz domów kablówka, DVD, PSP. Coraz częściej bogacze wciskają między te odpychające konstrukcje swoje wypasione hawiry, imho podkreślając tym samym gigantyczną przepaść jaka dzieli mieszkańców tego samego miasta.
I tu mała dygresja. Otóż totalnym obrzydlistwem jest dla mnie pomysł zwiedzania faweli ze zorganizowaną wycieczką. Płacenie grubej kasy za to, żeby obejrzeć ludzi żyjących niekiedy w skrajnej nędzy, jest rozrywką typową dla hipokryzji pierwszego świata. Słyszałam co prawda, że obecnie ciekawskich oprowadzają po tych enklawach ich mieszkańcy, więc kasa idzie do właściwej kieszeni. Z tym jestem w stanie się częściowo zgodzić, o ile ktoś chce po prostu poznać inną kulturę, a nie popatrzeć sobie jedynie na ubóstwo i porobić fotki na fejsa. Zakładam również, że ta druga opcja gwarantuje względne bezpieczeństwo. Przy innych rozwiązaniach można często pożegnać się z portfelem, a w skrajnych przypadkach- życiem, zwłaszcza w cieszącej się złą sławą Rocinha.
9. Surfing
Takich fal to ja jeszcze w życiu nie widziałam. Jeśli ktoś chce posurfować, to lepiej nie mógł trafić. Jedna tylko mała uwaga – trzeba być naprawdę dobrym w te klocki, albo przeznaczyć na szkolenie się lwią część pobytu. Gdy po powrocie do Polski nieco rozczarowani opowiadaliśmy o tym, że nie udało nam się pośmigać z deską, jedna z koleżanek, od lat uprawiająca wszelakie sporty wodne uświadomiła nas, iż trzeba być niezłym kozakiem, aby ogarnąć brazylijskie fale. To podobno zdradzieckie sukinsyny, które codziennie pochłaniają śmiertelne żniwo. Nie szykujcie się więc na jednodniowy kurs na wodzie, bo może być to brzemienne w skutkach. Jeśli jednak macie trochę czasu do zagospodarowania, to z ręką na sercu stwierdzamy, że niewiele jest miejsc na ziemi, w których można poszusować po wzburzonym oceanie tak epicko jak właśnie w Brazylii.
10. Policja
Jest wszędzie. Na metrze, przy Copacabanie, wieczorami na ulicach z włączonymi światłami. I nie mamy tu na myśli wątłych niewiast 1,4 m w kapeluszu, nieśmiało patrolujących willowe dzielnice. Wszyscy gliniarze, których widzieliśmy, wyglądali co najmniej jak tury od Zubrzyckiego, jeśli nie lepiej.Także przyodziew mają dość konkretny. Niektórzy chodzili nawet w kuloodpornych spodniach. Trudno się dziwić- w kraju, w którym dziecko ma czasami łatwiejszy dostęp do giwery niż porządnego jedzenia, taka forma bezpieczeństwa jest po prostu wskazana. Z tymi osobnikami nie warto zadzierać. Zwłaszcza, że utrzymujący się z głodowych pensji “funkcjonariusze prawa”, są mocno skorumpowani. Działają na dwa fronty, przy czym znacznie bardziej dochodowy jest dla nich dopływ gotówki pochodzący z haraczy, pobieranych z różnych źródeł, począwszy od właścicieli małych sklepików na handlarzach narkotykowych kończąc. Nie polecamy więc pyskówek. Bez względu na okoliczności.
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