Ta położona w południowych Włoszech miejscowość prawdopodobnie nie interesowałaby Polaków w ogóle gdyby nie fakt, że zaczęły do niej latać tanie linie. Proponowane przez przewoźników bilety nierzadko są w tak okazyjnych cenach, że ludzie bez zastanowienia kupują, a dopiero później eksplorują Internety w poszukiwaniu odpowiedzi na pytanie “czy warto tam jechać?!?
Spokojnie, warto. Może samo Bari nie należy do najpiękniejszych miast na świecie, jednak po pierwsze primo ma swój klimat, a po drugie primo stanowi idealną bazę wypadową. No i po trzecie primo – zawsze jest sens zmienić, chociaż na chwilę, szaroburą aurę na znacznie bardziej słoneczne okoliczności przyrody. Promocyjne bilety dotyczą bowiem zazwyczaj naszej późnej jesieni i zimy, które w krajach nadadriatyckich przebiegają w łagodniejszej formie. Na początku listopada było tam na tyle ciepło, że momentami chodziłam w samym t-shircie (ale nie jest to niestety reguła, warto mieć więc ze sobą także jakieś grubsze odzienie).
Ja akurat nie znalazłam się tam przez przypadek. Postanowiłyśmy wybyć gdzieś z koleżankami w miejsce, w którym ładnymi widokami i takąż pogodą można sobie naładować baterie na kilka miesięcy do przodu. Jako że dwie z dziewczyn część swojego życia spędziły we Włoszech, wybór padł na ten kraj i summa summarum na region Apulia. Zrobiłyśmy reaserch i zdecydowałyśmy się na nocleg w położonym o około 20 min. drogi od Bari niewielkim Giovinazzo, które jest sto razy bardziej urokliwe, spokojniejsze, idealne wręcz do odpoczywania. Miałyśmy dużo szczęścia, ponieważ wynajmowane przez nas mieszkanie mieściło się w samym sercu XIV- wiecznej starówki, nad wodą, przy rzadko uczęszczanej, cichej uliczce. Z perspektywy czasu stwierdzam, że była to świetna decyzja i mimo pewnych niedogodności natury logistycznej (celem wybycia gdziekolwiek dalej musiałyśmy dojeżdżać za 1,40 juro do barijskiego Dworca Głównego, do którego pociągi docierały niekoniecznie zgodnie z rozkładem) trafiłyśmy naprawdę wybornie. Aha, za pamięci wskazówka – żeby dotrzeć z lotniska na dworzec, czyli tak naprawdę do centrum miasta, najlepiej wybrać autobus. Jedzie co prawda z 15 minut dłużej niż metro, ale za to kosztuje 1 euro zamiast 5. A tak w ogóle to ichniejsza komunikacja lokalna jest wyborna. Na miejscu, poza najbardziej znaną Trenitalią, kursuje mnóstwo lokalnych przewoźników, zarówno pociągowych jak i autobusowych, więc do większości popularnych miejscówek dotrzecie sami, bez konieczności wypożyczania auta.
Giovinazzo to miasteczko, na którego zwiedzanie wystarczy w sumie jeden dzień. Co wcale nie oznacza, że nie warto w nim stacjonować. Wręcz odwrotnie. Zarówno jego architektura, jak i spokojni mieszkańcy, głównie w podeszłym wieku, wylewają na głowę jakiś taki kojący balsam i powodują, że jedyne na co człowiek ma ochotę to spacery, jedzenie pizzy, picie kawy, a od pewnej godziny i wina, w szczególności pysznego primitivo. I tu drobna ciekawostka z kategorii “napoje”. Otóż rzadko kiedy uraczycie w lokalu zwykłą herbatę. Jeśli już, to mrożoną. Kelner jednej z knajp zaproponował nawet włożenie Ice Tea do piekarnika w momencie, gdy koleżanka zażyczyła sobie napoju w wersji ciepłej.
Skoro jestem już przy stołowaniu się na mieście nie muszę chyba wyjaśniać, że było znakomicie. Zakładam, że światowa populacja osób nielubiących włoskiej kuchni jest niewielka, dlatego nie będę rozpisywać nad zaletami jedzenia, które miałyśmy okazję kosztować. Idealnie podobierane składniki, świeżość owoców , w tym oczywiście także tych z morza, domowej roboty makarony oraz obłędne lody w milionach smaków, a do tego wszystkiego relatywnie niskie ceny do jakości. Miód w gębie. Nieco gorzej jest w tym arcypopularnych miejscówkach turystycznych, bo tam trochę podlej, na szybko, za to drożej. Totalną wtopą okazał się np. szybki lunch w jednej z knajp Alberobello, która oprócz pustych półek w iście komunistycznym stylu oferowała jedynie obrzydliwie tłuste kulki z różnorakim nadzieniem oraz marne wino. Na szczęście w naszym swojskim Giovinazzo, oraz w innych pomniejszych mieścinach, nawet w bardzo podejrzanie wyglądających miejscach, czy takich jedynie z opcją take away, jedzenie było naprawdę super (czasami tylko nazbyt przesolone).
Nasza wycieczka trwała od środy do niedzieli, więc grafik miałyśmy dość napięty. Pierwszym miejscem całodziennej wyprawy było samo Bari. Po opuszczeniu dworca kolejowego należy iść w zasadzie cały czas prosto deptakiem, przy którym znajdują się sklepy, sieciówki i te luksusowe, nic ciekawego. Następnie docieracie do murów obronnych zamku, a od niego rzut beretem do portu. Jak zapuścicie się w głąb uliczek, znajdziecie się na Starym Mieście. Dość wyraźnie widać która część jest która, każdą wyróżnia zabudowa. Brzydka nowoczesność płynnie przechodzi w piaskowe kamieniczki z XV wieku lub renesansowe zdobne budynki. My starówkę zwiedziłyśmy hiperdokładnie – szukając informacji turystycznej, obeszłyśmy ją jakieś gazylion razy. Spacerując tak sobie dobrych kilka godzin mijałyśmy ludzi, którzy gotowali u wejścia domów, grali w karty na beczce wina czy też czyścili swoje Vespy. Było niebywale swojsko. Naszą uwagę przykuły pookrywane folią balkony pełne prania (dobry patent), liczne kapliczki ze świętymi obrazkami oraz szkoły podstawowe, które wyglądały jak zakłady karne albo obozy pracy. Milusio. Wnioski? Sądzę, że jeden dzień to aż nadto, żeby poznać Bari na pierwszy raz. Ale ten jeden dzień naprawdę wypada mieć nań zarezerwowany w swoim harmonogramie zwiedzania.
W następne dwa dni, w wyniku nieprzewidzianych komplikacji, zmuszone byłyśmy podzielić się na podgrupy. Główne atrakcje pozostały te same, dodatkowo jeszcze część z nas skorzystała z lokalnego festynu wina, połączonego z jarmarkiem. Dowiedziałyśmy się o nim w poszukiwanej, niczym zaginiona arka, informacji turystycznej Bari (znajdującej się jakby co rzut beretem od portu) – polecamy odwiedzenie tego punktu, zawsze uzyskacie garść pożytecznych ciekawostek. Anyway, bez względu konfigurację osobową, kolejne chwile naszych włoskich mikrowakacji, przeznaczyłyśmy na Polignano a Mare oraz Alberobello.
Pierwsza z tych miejscowości położona jest o około 30 minut jazdy pociągiem z Bari (trip kosztuje 5 euro w obydwie strony). Co ją wyróżnia? Ano kozacko malownicze położenie, które można podziwiać z poziomu plaży, bocznych skał, mostu, a także z pokładu promu (my dotarłyśmy niestety zbyt późno,aby sobie popływać.Z tego co wiem jednak taka przyjemność to 25 euro od osoby).
Bez względu na perspektywę podziwiania widoku jest on absolutnie zapierających dech w piersiach. Zakładam, że miało tam miejsce pierdyliard sesji zdjęciowych (jedna nawet w czasie naszego pobytu), krajobraz sto procent pocztówkowy.
Miejscowość znana jest również z tego, że urodził się w niej autor międzynarodowego szlagiera “Volare” – piosenkarz Domenico Modungo. Jego pomnik znajduje się przy samych skarpach, po lewej stronie punktu widokowego. Na uwagę zasługuje również starówka, jak zwykle w tamtej części świata urokliwa, spokojna, upstrzona sklepikami, knajpkami i miejscówkami B&B. Ten pakiet atrakcji sprawia, że Polignano a Mare nie może nie znaleźć się na Waszych listach must visit.
Ostatni dzień pobytu nad Adriatykiem przeznaczyłyśmy na miejsce najbardziej kojarzące się z Apulią, którego wizerunek ozdabia chyba wszystkie przewodniki – Alberobello. Jedzie się doń z Bari nieco dłużej, bo czasami wręcz dwie godziny. No i podróż jest odpowiednio droższa – 4,90 euro od osoby w jedną mańkę.
Do świadomości turystów z całego świata ta niewielka miejscowość trafiła za sprawą bajkowo wyglądających domków trulli, wpisanych oczywiście na listę UNESCO. Chatynki są białe, okrągłe, przyodziane w stożkowe, kamienne dachy i mimo iż spotkać je można w całym regionie, to w tej właśnie miejscowości znajduje się ich zdecydowanie najwięcej, bo aż 1500.
Mimo iż oficjalnie należą do Światowego Dziedzictwa, część z nich włączona została do bazy turystycznej, w związku z czym w niektórych można się posilić, kupić pamiątki, a nawet przenocować.
Oczywiście turyści, zachwyceni baśniową architekturą i fantazyjnym klimatem wioski, nabywają jak wścieknięci torby suvenirów, zaprezentowanych w obłędny wręcz sposób. Co to kto lubi. Taka sama chińszczyzna, tyle że droższa niż w supermarkecie. Niemniej jednak świadomość, że lodówkowy magnes wykonał elf czy inny skrzat, zamieszkujący któreś trullo, kojąco wpływa na wyobraźnię. Czemu więc nie pozwolić sobie na bycie dzieckiem chociaż przez chwilę? Na pewno jest to nietypowe miejsce, na pewno warto się zapuścić w te wąskie uliczki, z pewnością nocleg w którymś z domków musi być ciekawym doznaniem. My polecamy te włoską Narnię, zdecydowanie pomaga się odciąć od problemów dnia powszedniego.
Reasumując – warto kupić bilety do Bari. Nawet zimą. Nawet z niewielkim budżetem w kieszeni. Nawet mając małe podróżnicze doświadczenie. Super przygoda, piękne widoki, pyszne jedzenie, totalnie relaksujący czas. My z dziewczynami jesteśmy na TAK.
Dla mnie mamy tych dwóch dziewczyn związanych z Włochami,ten artykuł to bomba!Ta ilość zdjęć przepięknych!Ja tam nie byłam.
Pani Tereso- bardzo dziękujemy za miłe słowa 🙂
Cześć, super relacja, my się właśnie wybieramy do Bari za niespełna 2 tygodnie 🙂 Nie mogę już się doczekać!!!
Mamy w planie zwiedzić Bari, Alberobello i Materę.
Czy możecie podać jak dostałyście się z Bari do Alberobello? bo nie zauważyłam w materiale takiej informacji. My zastanawiamy się czy korzystać z komunikacji miejskiej czy wynająć auto. Cena 5 euro za bilet to w miarę spoko, tylko jak szybko się porusza pociąg?;-)
I jeszcze jedno pytanie organizacyjne, czy przystanek autobusowy jest w pobliżu lotniska czy trzeba gdzieś dojść? A metro też jest przy samym lotnisku?
Będę wdzięczna za info 🙂
Pozdrawiam, Aneta
Anetko, bardzo dziękujemy 🙂 Co do Twoich pytań,to już odpowiadamy, posiłkując się nieco tekstem. “Żeby dotrzeć z lotniska na dworzec, czyli tak naprawdę do centrum miasta, najlepiej wybrać autobus. Jedzie co prawda z 15 minut dłużej niż metro, ale za to kosztuje 1 euro zamiast 5. A tak w ogóle to ichniejsza komunikacja lokalna jest wyborna. Na miejscu, poza najbardziej znaną Trenitalią, kursuje mnóstwo lokalnych przewoźników, zarówno pociągowych jak i autobusowych, więc do większości popularnych miejscówek dotrzecie sami, bez konieczności wypożyczania aut”. I metro i przystanek autobusowy są zaraz przy lotnisku, w zasadzie na jego terenie. “Ostatni dzień pobytu nad Adriatykiem przeznaczyłyśmy na miejsce najbardziej kojarzące się z Apulią, którego wizerunek ozdabia chyba wszystkie przewodniki – Alberobello. Jedzie się doń z Bari nieco dłużej, bo czasami wręcz dwie godziny. No i podróż jest odpowiednio droższa – 4,90 euro od osoby w jedną mańkę”. Jeździłyśmy tylko komunikacją lokalną i naprawdę bardzo ją sobie chwalę. Pamiętaj, że Włosi czasem jeżdzą jak chcą, plus podrozujac samochodem przynajmniej jedna z osób ma mniej okazji do podziwiania widoków za oknem, a momentami są one naprawdę znakomite. Bardzo zazdrościmy wyloty, i to jeszcze na wiosnę! Wszystko zakwitnie, zazieleni się – będzie zapewne zjawiskowo pięknie!
Świetny wpis! Wybieramy się na Bari w połowie października. Też planujemy poruszać się komunikacją miejską – mam pytanie, czy bilety zakupiliście na miejscu w kiosku lub maszynach? Macie może jakieś informacje, czy można kupić jakieś bilety grupowe?
Pozdrawiam serdecznie!
Hej, dziękujemy ? bilety kupowalysmy na miejscu w automatach. Było nas tylko 5, więc grupowy chyba nie przysługiwał. Ale na miejscu jest kilku przewoźników, niewykluczone więc że któryś z nich oferuje już taką możliwość. Udanej podróży i niezapomnianych wrażeń.
Czesc ,ja sie wybieram pod koniec grudnia i mam takie pytanie ,czy w kazdym tym miescie miałyscie nocleg ? Czy raczej codziennie wracałyscie do jednego miasta?:)
Codziennie wracalysmy do Giovinazzo – magiczne miejsce ☺️ udanej podróży
super artykuł! co sądzisz o wyjeździe do Bari na przełomie styczeń/luty? Czy może lepiej poczekać na jakąś cieplejszą pogodę na wyjazd tam?
świetny artykuł, czy Bari i okolice pod koniec stycznia też będzie przyjazne do zwiedzania?
Dzięki! Przeczytałam Twój wpis jako pierwszy o Bari, zastanawiając się czy warto jechać w zimie… Wróciłam właśnie i powiem tak samo jak Ty::warto! Z pewnością mniej turystów. Ciepłej niż w Polsce, aczkolwiek pogoda była dynamiczna i zmieniała się kilka razy w ciągu dnia. Deszcz jak już był to nie żartował, ale na szczęście nie lał długo. No i wiało nieźle…
Уникальные советы по уходу за собой ждут вас здесь!
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