Bardziej oddalonego od cywilizacji miejsca jeszcze w życiu nie odwiedziłam. Mimo iż kilometrami wcale nie tak odległe od popularnej Mestii, zmusza do niezłego samozaparcia wybierających się doń turystów. Wynika to przede wszystkim z faktu, iż znajdujące się w Górnej Swanetii Uszguli, uważa się za najwyżej położoną osadę Europy (tak, wiem, Gruzję na blogu ulokowaliśmy w dziale Azja. No cóż, wersji jest kilka – według niektórych jest to państwo stricte azjatyckie, inni twierdzą, że leży ono na obydwu kontynentach, kolejni zaś widzą je jedynie w Europie. I Ci ostatni właśnie umieścili Uszguli w swojej księdze rekordów). Rozbieżności nie ma za to na pewno co do pomiarów – wioska znajduje się na wysokości 2200 m n.p.m., u stóp mierzącej 5068 m n.p.m góry Szchary, której ośnieżone szczyty pięknie prezentują się do zdjęć.
Uwarunkowania geograficzne i pogodowe powodują, że osada ta potrafi być całkowicie odcięta od świata śnieżnymi blokadami. Niezła abstrakcja – XXI wiek, czasy samoparkujących samochodów, telefonów cieńszych niż naleśniki i komercyjnych lotów na księżyc, a tu nagle 200 osób utyka w domowej pułapce i zdani są tylko na siebie. Na swoje zapasy, rozrywki i własne towarzystwo. Że też do tej pory nie skończyło się to jak w “Lśnieniu” Kinga – szczere chapeau bas. Zamiast się jednak mordować, mieszkańcy Uszguli długie zimowe wieczory poświęcają na lokalne tańce i śpiewy, zapewniając tym samym kontynuację swańskim, unikalnym tradycjom. W okresach bardziej sprzyjających zajmują się natomiast hodowlą zwierząt, ci młodsi chodzą do szkoły, a jak muszą podjąć wspólnotową decyzję, zwracają się z prośbą o nią do starszyzny.
My na szczęście na odwiedziny wybraliśmy tę właściwą połówkę roku, musząc jedynie uzbroić się w cierpliwość i aviomarin – dzięki naszemu cudownemu Kubie i jego napędzanym na dwie osie Mitsubishi Delicą trasę 47 km pokonaliśmy w jakieś 3,5 godziny ultraoffroadu (osoba odpowiedzialna w Google za ustalenie sugerowanego czasu na pokonanie tej odległości powinna zostać wysłana na korepetycje z precyzyjności do Kim Dzong Una). Czas rozciąga się niczym guma od majtek, zarówno ze względu na warunki naturalne, jak i konieczność ciągłych przystanków: a to krowy, a to ryzyko zsunięcia się w przepaść, a to zielony kolor twarzy pasażerów, wywołany nadmiernymi wertepami i odbytą poprzedniego wieczora suprą. No i oczywiście widoki. Co chwila robiliśmy mini postój, celem uwiecznienia czegoś, co za kilka lat zostanie zabudowane SPA Resortami, ogwiazdkowanymi Michelinem knajpami tajskimi i licznymi Biedronkami. Póki co region ten oferuje jedynie bardzo bliski i dosłownie rozumiany kontakt z naturą. Jeśli ktoś chce doświadczyć luksusu, przy odrobinie szczęścia możne uda mu się załatwić guest house zapewniający wodę z kranu. Zimną. Ciepła jest jedynie w wersji ultraallinclusive, dostępnej dla naprawdę nielicznych.
Przy wjeździe turystów, coraz tłumniej odwiedzających Uszguli, witają charakterystyczne dla tego regionu kamienne wieże. W średniowieczu pełniły one przede wszystkim role baszt obronnych, teraz robią za mieszkania. Deweloperzy powinni brać przykład z tamtejszych architektów – żeby od X wieku bazować tylko na jednym osiedlu i nieprzerwanie mieć na nie klientów. Imponujące! W wiosce wież jest prawie 40, a jak się ładnie uśmiechnie do lokalsa i poczęstuje go przypadkowo zabraną ze sobą porzeczkówką, można się na którąś wgramolić i podziwiać niesamowite widoki.
Nakarmiwszy oczy pierwszą dawką widokówkowych obrazów, można też napełnić żołądki. W “centrum” znajduje się knajpka, która uraczy nas winem, zupą i wypiekanym na miejscu chaczapuri. Ci, którzy nie chcą tracić czasu na biesiadowanie, mogą skorzystać z wersji take away, czyli w jednej dłoni placek, a w drugiej zimne piwo. Polecam to drugie rozwiązanie – widoki z wieży to dopiero preludium przed prawdziwym sztosem – bogactwem Kaukazu w pełnej krasie. W góry można się wspiąć z wykorzystaniem własnych kończyn, przy okazji włażąc w różne zakamarki wioski lub też skorzystać z konnej taksówki, za którą podobno ładne dziewczyny nie muszą płacić (niestety nie wiem jaki typ urody jest preferowany – obecność chłopaków skutecznie zastopowała mi i koleżnce opcję gratisowej jazdy na rumaku).
Minąwszy rozpadające się chatynki oraz prawdopodobnie ciekawe muzea, weszliśmy prosto do raju. Naszym oczom ukazał się widok, którego człowiek nie chciałby się nigdy pozbywać spod powiek. Nawet w trakcie pisania wracam myślami do tamtych momentów i, jakkolwiek ckliwie by to nie brzmiało, rozpływam się we wspomnieniach. Jednocześnie serce mi krwawi na myśl, że niebawem te dziewicze tereny zostaną zadeptane przez hordy turystów (w sumie muszę przemyśleć czy jest sens, żeby zachwalać tak to miejsce. Pamiętam, że w pierwszej chwili poczułam rozczarowanie przegraną Mazur w konkursie na cud natury, następnie jednak uzmysłowiłam sobie, że dzięki temu uchronią się jeszcze przez chwilę przed paskudztwami cywilizacji). Chłonąć wszystkimi porami krajobraz, wyglądający jak plan reklamy czekolady Milka, można na kilka sposobów: siedząc i się gapiąc w dal, bawiąc się ze szczeniakiem Kaukaza, obserwując przez teleobiektyw bydło lub robiąc sobie sesję w strumyku (i modląc się w duchu, żeby po jej zakończeniu nie lecieć śmigłowcem na amputację stóp, wielce prawdopodobną ze względu na lodowcową temperaturę wody).
Gdybym mogła, zostałabym tam na zawsze. A przynajmniej do pierwszego weekendu, w którym zachciałoby mi się teatru, basenu albo pad thaia z krewetkami. Doświadczenie niesamowite, ładujące baterie na długie miesiące, a czasem i lata. Punkt absolutnie obowiązkowy w czasie gruzińskich wakacji, którego pominięcie jest niewybaczalnym grzechem. Żadne masaże gorącymi kamieniami, wstrzykiwanie w czoło kiełbasianego jadu, czy też koktajle z jarmużu, nasion chia i awokado, nie dadzą tyle energii, siły i witalności, co jeden dzień spędzony w doborowym towarzystwie w Uszguli.
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